Page 2 of 2

Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:48 pm
by claimdude
Admin,

Thanks for fessing up. I received the email too. My handle kit is supposed to be delivered this Tuesday so I will complete the opinion survey next weekend after I have had a chance to test it out.

Jack
admin wrote:My fault on this one. I meant to send it to all who had been shipped the Quick-Index Quill Handle, but got in a hurry and ended up sending it to all who had ordered one.

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:52 am
by skou
admin wrote:My fault on this one. I meant to send it to all who had been shipped the Quick-Index Quill Handle, but got in a hurry and ended up sending it to all who had ordered one.
Admin is here on the weekend?

GREAT!!

steve

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 4:04 am
by skou
admin wrote:My fault on this one. I meant to send it to all who had been shipped the Quick-Index Quill Handle, but got in a hurry and ended up sending it to all who had ordered one.
Admin, would you like to address all the parts in the catalog, that are listed, "will not work on the Model 10, Mark 2, Mark VII?"

A LOT of those parts are direct copies of parts MADE for the Model 10, and work JUST FINE.

Yes, some of them (arbors, to be specific) need to be used as required, (spacers should be on the left, or headstock side of the blade, not on the end, because they will hit the trunnion,) and other limitations. (This speed reducer/increaser will not clamp to the Model 10 waytubes.)

Since I've got a couple (4) Model 10s, I can help you. (But, I think there are still a few Model 10s building Mark 7s, in the factory.)(Funny, you can't machine a Model 10, with a Mark 7.)

steve

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:53 am
by dusty
skou wrote:Admin, would you like to address all the parts in the catalog, that are listed, "will not work on the Model 10, Mark 2, Mark VII?"

A LOT of those parts are direct copies of parts MADE for the Model 10, and work JUST FINE.

Yes, some of them (arbors, to be specific) need to be used as required, (spacers should be on the left, or headstock side of the blade, not on the end, because they will hit the trunnion,) and other limitations. (This speed reducer/increaser will not clamp to the Model 10 waytubes.)

Since I've got a couple (4) Model 10s, I can help you. (But, I think there are still a few Model 10s building Mark 7s, in the factory.)(Funny, you can't machine a Model 10, with a Mark 7.)

steve
Steve, we have hijacked this thread but since we have already done that will you please help.

I just did an Adobe Search for the phrase highlighted above and several versions of that phrase and the search reports no incidents of that phrase (or versions of that phrase) to be in the online catalog.

Would you give me two or three examples of what you are reading.

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:53 am
by JPG
skou wrote:Admin, would you like to address all the parts in the catalog, that are listed, "will not work on the Model 10, Mark 2, Mark VII?"

A LOT of those parts are direct copies of parts MADE for the Model 10, and work JUST FINE.

Yes, some of them (arbors, to be specific) need to be used as required, (spacers should be on the left, or headstock side of the blade, not on the end, because they will hit the trunnion,) and other limitations. (This speed reducer/increaser will not clamp to the Model 10 waytubes.)

Since I've got a couple (4) Model 10s, I can help you. (But, I think there are still a few Model 10s building Mark 7s, in the factory.)(Funny, you can't machine a Model 10, with a Mark 7.)

steve

Sez who????

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 11:08 am
by beeg
skou wrote:(But, I think there are still a few Model 10s building Mark 7s, in the factory.)
steve

You know this how?

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 11:47 am
by JPG
beeg wrote:You know this how?

Folks who have 'recently' been in thar say so. Makes sense unless all machining has been outsourced.

They are just too easily maintained! Drill presses if nothing else.


But then I have not been in thar!

My response

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:48 am
by charlese
I scored it a 4 out of 5 for one reason only. The hub fitting onto the quill feed shaft does not perfectly align the allen screw to the indents in the shaft. When the hub is pushed onto the shaft until bottoming out the screw will hit on the inside shoulder of the recesses. Although it is a simple matter to slide the hub outward and align the screw with an indent, it should not be necessary. Manufacture of the hub has drilled the shaft hole about 3/32" to 1/8" too deep. I will insert a small flat washer into the hub to fill most of that space, making it easier to align the allen screw to a recess in the shaft.

OK! once attached, there should never again be a need to try to make such an alignment. The Hub should stay put forever as long as I apply Locktite to the allen screw. It is a good thing the allen screw has a round point which fits the recesses.

My review of the "handle portion" of the Quick-index Quill Feed Handle is EXCELLENT!!! Having tried many ways to pull the handle off by pulling on the handle I have found the only way is to pull the handle off straight along the axis of the quill feed shaft. This exercise showed me the handle will sit firmly attached to the hub regardless of rough use.