shopsmith 5 noise when I turn to hight speed
Moderator: admin
- blainenbecky
- Silver Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:35 pm
- Location: Zachary LA.North of BR.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
[ATTACH]26485[/ATTACH]
Manually rotate the shafts(a sanding disk on the quill works well) by hand while slowly increasing the speed setting all the way to fast. First however see if you can remove that clip entirely from the bearing center in the hub of the control sheave(otherwise it may drop into the bowels of the motor pan and hide under the motor).
If you do get the clip removed, merely adjust to fast(no parts trauma will occur with the clip removed)(same cannot be said for moving the speed control towards slow!!!!)
However, It is unclear where the speed control is currently positioned. The floating sheave on the motor shaft appears to be in 'slow' condition.
The objective is to get the clip off the porkchop and the control sheave away from the porkchop.
You may need to manually rotate the shafts as initially described to get that separation.
You should see two small holes in the control sheave bearing 'button'. That clip is inserted into those two holes at opposite sides. It is possible(likely) the clip may have bent as it was 'pulled' out of the holes(a common occurrence if the sheave is sticky and not sliding freely on the shaft).
After getting the clip back in shape and attached to the button, again adjust the speed control to fast(it should be free to move towards fast without manually rotating the shafts).
Depress the floating flat spring on the porkchop, and slip the clip over it.
That clip will come off if the control sheave is not well lubricated so the clip never has to pull on it. That clip is merely to prevent the center button from rotating as it slides against the porkchop. The control sheave must be well oiled to the shaft to prevent the porkchop from pulling the clip loose again.
Manually rotate the shafts(a sanding disk on the quill works well) by hand while slowly increasing the speed setting all the way to fast. First however see if you can remove that clip entirely from the bearing center in the hub of the control sheave(otherwise it may drop into the bowels of the motor pan and hide under the motor).
If you do get the clip removed, merely adjust to fast(no parts trauma will occur with the clip removed)(same cannot be said for moving the speed control towards slow!!!!)
However, It is unclear where the speed control is currently positioned. The floating sheave on the motor shaft appears to be in 'slow' condition.
The objective is to get the clip off the porkchop and the control sheave away from the porkchop.
You may need to manually rotate the shafts as initially described to get that separation.
You should see two small holes in the control sheave bearing 'button'. That clip is inserted into those two holes at opposite sides. It is possible(likely) the clip may have bent as it was 'pulled' out of the holes(a common occurrence if the sheave is sticky and not sliding freely on the shaft).
After getting the clip back in shape and attached to the button, again adjust the speed control to fast(it should be free to move towards fast without manually rotating the shafts).
Depress the floating flat spring on the porkchop, and slip the clip over it.
That clip will come off if the control sheave is not well lubricated so the clip never has to pull on it. That clip is merely to prevent the center button from rotating as it slides against the porkchop. The control sheave must be well oiled to the shaft to prevent the porkchop from pulling the clip loose again.
- Attachments
-
- idler clip loose.jpg (114.16 KiB) Viewed 1969 times
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- blainenbecky
- Silver Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:35 pm
- Location: Zachary LA.North of BR.
JPG and Blaine
Is that a crack in the porkchop just to the right of the arrow in JPG's pic?
The wiring should definitely be repaired. In my opinion the machine should be torn down and inspected and worn pats replaced/repaired.
Bill V
PS the clip is mispositioned and may be that way because the bearing in the snout of the control sheave is frozen. The main reason for the bearing failure is lack of lubrication. That may also be the source of the noise that you hear.
Is that a crack in the porkchop just to the right of the arrow in JPG's pic?
The wiring should definitely be repaired. In my opinion the machine should be torn down and inspected and worn pats replaced/repaired.
Bill V
PS the clip is mispositioned and may be that way because the bearing in the snout of the control sheave is frozen. The main reason for the bearing failure is lack of lubrication. That may also be the source of the noise that you hear.
- blainenbecky
- Silver Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:35 pm
- Location: Zachary LA.North of BR.
- blainenbecky
- Silver Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:35 pm
- Location: Zachary LA.North of BR.
- blainenbecky
- Silver Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:35 pm
- Location: Zachary LA.North of BR.
well the good news is that it is not a crack,it is just a shadow from the cast of the porkchop thing.wa2crk wrote:JPG and Blaine
Is that a crack in the porkchop just to the right of the arrow in JPG's pic?
The wiring should definitely be repaired. In my opinion the machine should be torn down and inspected and worn pats replaced/repaired.
Bill V
PS the clip is mispositioned and may be that way because the bearing in the snout of the control sheave is frozen. The main reason for the bearing failure is lack of lubrication. That may also be the source of the noise that you hear.
I don't think the top pulleys are moving far enough apart .when I watched them while it was running the top did not move like the bottom pulleys did.the belt never went as deep into the pulleys on the top as on the bottom
here is a better pic of the shadow crack
thanks guys

We have been through a Lot together,
and its all your Fault
and its all your Fault
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Look in the bottom for a 'roll' pin.
[ATTACH]26491[/ATTACH]
The roll pin goes into that hole in the 'button' in the center of the sheave 'button' bearing. The clip ends then go into the 'roll' pin.
The purpose of the clip is to prevent the center 'button' from rotating with the sheave. I believe a lack of lubrication caused the clip to be pulled out and the roll pin dropped out.(a not uncommon occurrence with lack of adequate lubrication of the movable sheave);)
If the control sheave is adequately lubricated(and the floating sheave on the motor shaft is also) the loop is never pulled by the quadrant gear arm. I believe yours was pulled off. That would imply the quadrant gear(porkchop) pulled the loop due to the control sheave not moving freely.
Realize there is a balance of forces going on in the 'Reeves' drive. The quadrant positions the control sheave and everything else responds to that.
As the idler pulley is opened and closed by the 'porkchop', the floating sheave on the motor shaft closes and opens to maintain belt tension.
It is imperative that the movable sheaves move freely to maintain that equilibrium. Hence the 'oil often' mantra! To that I would add oil liberally!!!;)
Now, if the floating sheave on the motor shaft is indeed 'bottoming' out, I would check the top width of the motor belt. It should be slightly greater than 1/2" when new. If it gets less than 7/16" or so it needs to be replaced. Only the mother ship has the correct belt(26 1/2" and 17/32" top width).
V-belts are no longer typically made as they were a half century ago. Unfortunately this means only the mother ship has the correct belt(for a while, even the mother ship did not have an acceptable belt!):mad:. That has been corrected!!!:)
[ATTACH]26491[/ATTACH]
The roll pin goes into that hole in the 'button' in the center of the sheave 'button' bearing. The clip ends then go into the 'roll' pin.
The purpose of the clip is to prevent the center 'button' from rotating with the sheave. I believe a lack of lubrication caused the clip to be pulled out and the roll pin dropped out.(a not uncommon occurrence with lack of adequate lubrication of the movable sheave);)
If the control sheave is adequately lubricated(and the floating sheave on the motor shaft is also) the loop is never pulled by the quadrant gear arm. I believe yours was pulled off. That would imply the quadrant gear(porkchop) pulled the loop due to the control sheave not moving freely.
Realize there is a balance of forces going on in the 'Reeves' drive. The quadrant positions the control sheave and everything else responds to that.
As the idler pulley is opened and closed by the 'porkchop', the floating sheave on the motor shaft closes and opens to maintain belt tension.
It is imperative that the movable sheaves move freely to maintain that equilibrium. Hence the 'oil often' mantra! To that I would add oil liberally!!!;)
Now, if the floating sheave on the motor shaft is indeed 'bottoming' out, I would check the top width of the motor belt. It should be slightly greater than 1/2" when new. If it gets less than 7/16" or so it needs to be replaced. Only the mother ship has the correct belt(26 1/2" and 17/32" top width).
V-belts are no longer typically made as they were a half century ago. Unfortunately this means only the mother ship has the correct belt(for a while, even the mother ship did not have an acceptable belt!):mad:. That has been corrected!!!:)
- Attachments
-
- control sheave clip.jpg (246.07 KiB) Viewed 1956 times
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- rcplaneguy
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 549
- Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:33 pm
- Location: Chapel Hill, NC
- blainenbecky
- Silver Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:35 pm
- Location: Zachary LA.North of BR.
thanks guys
I am going to do some of the tare down vids as it is getting a little overwhelming
thanks again for all the help
starting with this vid
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... hanger.htm
I am going to do some of the tare down vids as it is getting a little overwhelming
thanks again for all the help
starting with this vid
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... hanger.htm
We have been through a Lot together,
and its all your Fault
and its all your Fault