Shopsmith Forums

robinson46176 wrote:Rule #5: "Do not run while ripping"

For many years I used an older (1950's) Craftsman 10" table-saw in the farm shop. It is still stored there but currently not in use. Most of those years I wished for just a little more motor on it than the 3/4 HP one that was on it. I kind of wanted a 1 1/2 HP but there was always too many other places for $$$ to go to replace a working motor that I could get by with if I was careful. I kept watching for a good used at least a 1 HP motor to put on it.
A number of years ago I built that saw into the left front corner of a 4' x 6' table that made it quite handy for sheet goods or long stuff. I refurbished the saw then and since it was no longer portable I switched it over to 220 volt operation. The result was amazing... I wish I had done that years earlier... It was like I had put a 1 HP motor on it. I could rip at a steady feed rate and not slow down for knots or tough grain.
I have always wished that my Shopsmith's were a simple "cord replacement and switch a couple of wires" conversion to 220 Volt operation.
I have a good 1 HP AOM dust-proof motor from a small grain bin unloading auger that I no longer use that I want to put on my 10-ER when I get back in the woodshop this winter. It is already sat up for 220V as were most of the motors I ran on the farm like grain blowers and grain cleaners etc. Far more efficient especially since most needed to be running through 20 to 50 feet of extension cord due to their being portable items and being sat up in different spots.
That 220 Volt 1 HP motor on a 10-ER should have power to waste. I wouldn't spend for a big motor for the 10-ER but since I have this one and no other real use for it I figure why not.

Francis, if you want to improve your Model 10 power, check out Skip's DC conversion kit.

http://www.filefactory.com/file/54k2zqb ... orpage.htm

Without a doubt, the singular best idea for updating a Model 10. Period!

And, very easy speed control. As easy as changing the volume on your shop radio. Just turn the knob.

steve

Ooops. That one got by the editors. Yeah, 7 1/4".

[quote="JPG"]Yes. However his 10ER only has three speeds. 1750/2, 1750, 2x 1750 or 875, 1750, 3500. He was running at 3500.

And the power required goes up if the speed is increased.

I assume you meant 7 1/4".]

Gene Howe wrote:Ooops. That one got by the editors. Yeah, 7 1/4".

So tell 'the editor' to go back and 'correct' it!:D

Ed,

Diablo has 8-1/4" blades easily findable: http://smile.amazon.com/Freud-D0824X-Di ... _hi_text_y. The Diablo blades, and other brands, do tend to run a bit under size, as I recall 1/16" or maybe 1/8".

Also, a 24T blade would probably work a bit better for ripping than the 40T.

Hope we get to see some photos of the finished product.

Roy

Too late. Already gone to print. Will be corrected in future issues (posts).

JPG wrote:So tell 'the editor' to go back and 'correct' it!:D

Gene Howe wrote:Too late. Already gone to print. Will be corrected in future issues (posts).

It is never too late to edit/correct/alter/delete/etc.!

Nice to see we have interest in this thread. I'll feed out a few more details which might be of interest to more of you. It will also help explain why things like a dc motor system is not going to happen.

First my brother makes some where between 800 and 1200 birdhouses a year. He does assembly in the winter as the out buildings are too expensive to heat and that is where the saws and drill press etc reside. Keep in mind this is northern WI.

The other rub is that he sells most of the birdhouses for just $3 each. He uses what ever scraps he can find to do this, the wood cost is near $0. If you want to look at like this, the cost of materials is maybe in the 25 cent range, glue, nails etc. So spending on tools has to be kept low if he wants to make any profit. If he were to buy a new motor for the other saw he has to sell like 66 birdhouses to recover that $200.

In small towns you let people know you have a need for a 3/4hp motor and someone will likely have one they will trade for something they need. Very unlikely will my brother buy new.

Even the saw blade, an investment of $17 takes about 6 birdhouses to pay for.

As for the blade I believe this is the one he has:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=19708486

Checked the DeWalt site and the blade has a .063" width, that would be 1/16" for those decimally challenged. If you are still having an issue think thinner then a nickle.

I may have to buy him a larger blade for Christmas or his birthday as I have a feeling he will not spring for one on his own.

This all is relative for me as I have my own 10er, well mine is apart and in various stages of painting for about 2 years now. (Zero progress this year.) It looks like I might want to spring for a new motor and some blades but not until it nears being shop ready. It would be nice to have it reversible for turning too. Mine has a speed changer, have not gotten to even try that aspect of a 10er but I'm looking forward to it.

Ed

He has a new bird feeder design that I have not seen. He built a half dozen and sold them but when he went back to make more his saw motor died. I'm not sure how many feeders this will build but my main part of this was to reinforce his familiarity with the 10er as a table saw. This was enough parts to do that.

For my part I learned that I will be making a few changes on my 10er before it goes into service.

My first shopsmith was purchased new in 1976. I used it as a 500 into the 2000's. Once upgraded to a 520 I wondered why I waited so long to do so. But then I missed my old 500 so I now have two 520, and 2 500's along with the yet to be put in service 10er.

But even before that I grew up with a old 1940's era 10" table saw and a small tilt table saw about the same size as the 10er. The small saw and a jointer shared a bench and the motor was a dual shaft version that you used by removing the belt to the table saw while using the jointer then changed the set up via the belt to run the saw. This is where I learned a lot of my wood working. The small saw/jointer I believe pre-dated the other table saw. The stacked dado blade was I think 4" dia. And I think the motor was maybe 1/2hp. Of course no guards anywhere. I built a lot of stuff using that equipment. The jointer looked a lot like the shopsmith and I hated doing the knife adjustment on it so much that I chose not to buy a shopsmith jointer because of the memories.

Just saying I have a lot of experience with hardware that was similar so it brings back a lot of good and bad memories like sharpening steel saw blades while I wanted to be cutting wood.... but then the many things that were interesting to build and enjoy. Yes many more good then bad memories.

Ed

BuckeyeDennis wrote:That's a pretty impressive pile of strips. I'm guessing that this is not another canoe build, so what are they for?

Even Steve admits that the table saw function on a 10ER is pretty weak, so I'll be very interested in the feedback. I need to clear out some space in my shop, but the 10ER is staying for sure.

beeg wrote:How about using a QUALITY saw blade. Remember what Nick said.

Actually that was nick quoting me.

Ed

Skou, the link is wrong. Could you put up the right one. I've seen it before, but lost it. Lot of great stuff there.