A Call for Assistance/Guidance

[skou]

Dusty,
I would think that a rare earth magnet on each corner of the door will be plenty of holding power. A 1/2" dia by 1/8" thick round magnet will have at least 12 pounds of holding power. Twenty would cost about $15. Though I presume metal plates on the mating surfaces would be sufficient, you could embed magnets at corresponding locations around the frame. I am not certain of the increased holding power,nor the formula to find it, but trying to separate two of the smaller 1/4" ones takes a fair effort.
If your wife is worried about slipping, you could add a small rail/molding along the bottom and sides to prevent the door from shifting while going down the road.
Certainly not as convenient as having a hinge along the bottom, plus when removing the door you would need some place to set it.

I remember my old trailer where the cupboards had cloth curtains held at the top and bottom by springs through pockets. The old sagging suspension caused major movement of any and all things inside, however the curtains always kept the pots and dishes from falling out.

Just my thoughts.

Be well,
Ben

Dusty, why not use Ben's idea, with an addition.

On the lower door fronts, put a dog that will drop into a pocket in the carcass, (to do the major holding) and put a magnet in both of the upper corners.

Set the dog in the slot, (kinda like a French cleat) and the magnets would hold everything together. The dogs, instead of the magnets, would take all the abuse from stuff hitting the door, and would be a positive lock. To remove it, pull the top out a bit, and lift the whole door out.

An idea.

steve

[dusty]

Dusty,
I would think that a rare earth magnet on each corner of the door will be plenty of holding power. A 1/2" dia by 1/8" thick round magnet will have at least 12 pounds of holding power. Twenty would cost about $15. Though I presume metal plates on the mating surfaces would be sufficient, you could embed magnets at corresponding locations around the frame. I am not certain of the increased holding power,nor the formula to find it, but trying to separate two of the smaller 1/4" ones takes a fair effort.
If your wife is worried about slipping, you could add a small rail/molding along the bottom and sides to prevent the door from shifting while going down the road.
Certainly not as convenient as having a hinge along the bottom, plus when removing the door you would need some place to set it.

I remember my old trailer where the cupboards had cloth curtains held at the top and bottom by springs through pockets. The old sagging suspension caused major movement of any and all things inside, however the curtains always kept the pots and dishes from falling out.

Just my thoughts.

Be well,
Ben

Dusty, why not use Ben's idea, with an addition.

On the lower door fronts, put a dog that will drop into a pocket in the carcass, (to do the major holding) and put a magnet in both of the upper corners.

Set the dog in the slot, (kinda like a French cleat) and the magnets would hold everything together. The dogs, instead of the magnets, would take all the abuse from stuff hitting the door, and would be a positive lock. To remove it, pull the top out a bit, and lift the whole door out.

An idea.

steve

I like the idea of setting the door aside when access is required. This would be consistent with what is in that cabinet too. That area is not major storage; the wheel well consumes much of the space. It is also a racxeway for plumbing and electrical.

Thanks all of you. But keep them coming if you come up with any other ideas. I'll post if a make (she) make a decision.

[dusty]

I do believe I have a viable solution to 'my perceived problems' with the current cabinet doors in the RV. This potential solution comes as a combined result of comments made in response to my request. I thank you all.

The solution (pictured later) is a version of the french cleat (sorta). At least my vision of this solution was prompted by the french cleat recommendation.

All I have to do now is find a way to bend light weight sheet metal to create the required parts. If I had access to a sheet metal break it would be a snap.

[algale]

That looks like it will work. Why sheet metal versus wood? Weight?

[dusty]

That looks like it will work. Why sheet metal versus wood? Weight?

I don't know and wood might be a better solution because the cleats could be glued to the doors. The sheet metal approach would necessitate screws to say nothing of the "bending the sheet metal" issue. The jury is still out.

I'm going to put together a door from cut offs to demo/test the first version of the solution.

[Ed in Tampa]

Dusty
Why not make the cabinet fronts lift up and slide back into the cabinet.
It would require a track for the top and two dowels in the cabinet fronts to hold them in the track. Use a magnet in the cabinet front to hold them close and hold the leading egde up when open.

[dusty]

If I was building the cabinet, I would probably do just that. But I am not building only trying to renovate. I don't even want to call it a restoration. Restoration implies (to me) an attempt to return to original condition when new. I just want to put it back on the road in good enough condition to feel secure.

[JPG]

If you made the metal parts from a narrower 'strip', you could 'form' the 'z' 'cleats' in a vise. Two on each end(top and bottom) should do the trick.*

Does not eliminate the screws though.

* actually three would suffice(two on top or bottom at the sides, one at the middle of the other end). I think two at the bottom would be better.