Shopsmith Forums

I guess the more appropriate question would be, is there a cheaper alternative to the 1700 power pro upgrade. I don't care about the digital gauge but would like the increase in HP and torque.

Higher HP motors will normally not fit in the motor pan and would require 220 VAC which most shops do not have. Only Shopsmith motors have the extended shaft for the motor sheaves. I did a lot of testing in this area about 10 years ago. I mounted a flat plate across the bottom of the headstock and mounted different motors to the plate without a motor pan. I used a link belt for the motor belt. For fixed speed motors, I used a home made extension shaft for the motor sleeves with a coupler to each motor (different shaft sizes). These motors would extend up to 12" in front of the headstock and would just fit between the bench tubes. They looked like crap for each setup without the motor pan. Using the variable sheaves, I doubt if you could go over 2 HP before the motor belt will start slipping. I used a fixed size pulley for the variable speed motors (DC & 3 phase) and the idler shaft. Sounds like an alignment problem as I found the Shopsmith motors to have good torque when I was testing motors.

superpop wrote:I am not using an extension cord and have tried two different circuits both 20A. I will double check blade alignment but I don't think that is the issue. I figured this was a common problem as the folks with the Power pro heads seem to like the fact that the headstock is much more robust. Otherwise why would shopsmith up the HP and torque if what I have was more than enough.

No tripping circuit breakers while ripping 1/2" stock is not a common problem. The power pro delivers greater horsepower but without the peak current typical with an induction motor. Common causes for breaker tripping are low voltage(hence the extension cord ?), other stuff connected to the breaker.

As for ripping problems, the rip fence alignment can indeed cause extra loading of the motor as already mentioned, but the wrong blade or dull blade will also create excessive loading. Ripping requires deep gullets to carry away the swarf.

Now do tell us more about the 'new belt sander'. SS mounted? If so, there is something fishy with the SS motor. The SS belt sander is a light load typically. If not SS driven, there is something fishy with the power source.

Belt sander is SS mount, it is a Craigslist find but I think that may have been a tension issue on the belt.

superpop wrote:Belt sander is SS mount, it is a Craigslist find but I think that may have been a tension issue on the belt.

SS motor belt, or belt sander belt? I am guessing sanding belt slipping. Are you setting the tension correctly? It is not intuitively obvious.

I think what all of the responses indicate is that you need to make sure both your Shopsmith equipment and your electrical circuit are working correctly. Only then can you accurately determine whether you need more HP or torque. My guess is that when all are working correctly you are going to find out that you have adequate torque and HP to cut through any wood- maybe not as fast as a 3 HP Unisaw but nonetheless capable of making the cut.

superpop wrote:I am not using an extension cord and have tried two different circuits both 20A. I will double check blade alignment but I don't think that is the issue. I figured this was a common problem as the folks with the Power pro heads seem to like the fact that the headstock is much more robust. Otherwise why would shopsmith up the HP and torque if what I have was more than enough.

In one word "Evolution."

Yes more power is good and over the years improvements have been made as in most long running equipment on the market but the original Shopsmith will handle what you are trying to do without issue if working properly. If you have used 2 different 20 amp circuits on separate breakers then my vote is a bad or week motor. May be time to bite the bullet and order the Power Pro Up Grade.

JPG wrote:

superpop wrote:Belt sander is SS mount, it is a Craigslist find but I think that may have been a tension issue on the belt.

SS motor belt, or belt sander belt? I am guessing sanding belt slipping. Are you setting the tension correctly? It is not intuitively obvious.

I finally tracked down this pix.
Take note of the RE-tension instructions.