Shopsmith Forums

charlese wrote:
All ya gotta do is learn how to sharpen and keep your blades sharp!

I'll bite: What is involved in sharpening one's own table saw blades? Do you need special equipment? Do you sharpen carbide blades or only steel?

This thread causes me to recall some discussion a while back when I first discovered this zoo. I fergit who made the initial post, but the 'issue' was what was causing the workpiece to have 'swirl' marks along the cut edge.

My experience up to that point was that ALL my workpieces looked like that!

I have since had occasion to use carbide tipped blades most of them acquired 'used' as well as 'new'.

Yes Virginia there is a difference.

I have one Forrest blade. Yes they are worth the $.

Wait until thee has a need for a 'good' blade, then I think any of the high $ blades will do if you have been satisfied with what you currently have(but then you already said that ).

algale wrote:

charlese wrote:
All ya gotta do is learn how to sharpen and keep your blades sharp!

I'll bite: What is involved in sharpening one's own table saw blades? Do you need special equipment? Do you sharpen carbide blades or only steel?

First step is to clean the blade. I use dish detergent. I only have carbide tipped blades. I used to sharpen by hand, using a diamond paddle. This was very time consuming!! Touching up the front of the teeth making sure any small nicks were removed. Did not touch the top of the tooth or the sides, other to clean them.

After much consternation I bought a Harbor Freight circle saw sharpener. I was mostly concerned that it would firmly hold blades with a 1 1/4" center hole. Was happy to find it works great, without shims. I comes with a diamond grinding wheel that is replaceable. Just light touches with that wheel are needed, unless there is a chip to take off. Again, I only grind the front of each tooth.

With that machine I have sharpened most of my blades twice. They saw very smoothly, and have stayed sharp for a long time.

BTW - they are all Shopsmith blades.

P.S. OH yeah! Wear magnifying glasses - Needed for an old man!

I'm blessed by being very close to "the hardwood store of North Carolina".
http://hardwoodstore.com These folks have super blade sharpening services. For $16 a blade they come back like new. Amazing wood supplies.

charlese wrote:

algale wrote: I'll bite: What is involved in sharpening one's own table saw blades? Do you need special equipment? Do you sharpen carbide blades or only steel?

First step is to clean the blade. I use dish detergent. I only have carbide tipped blades. I used to sharpen by hand, using a diamond paddle. This was very time consuming!! Touching up the front of the teeth making sure any small nicks were removed. Did not touch the top of the tooth or the sides, other to clean them.

I just ran across this video showing the "sharpen by hand, using a diamond paddle." process.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVxHa-4X2YQ[/youtube]

and here is one showing hand filing of a bandsaw blade.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym6oIaaVMBs[/youtube]

rcplaneguy wrote:I'm blessed by being very close to "the hardwood store of North Carolina".
http://hardwoodstore.com These folks have super blade sharpening services. For $16 a blade they come back like new. Amazing wood supplies.

Hmmm, about 40 minutes away for me. I will definitely keep that in mind!

As the original poster, the day has come to buy new blades. I went with Woodslicer for resaw and Timberwolf for all others. I also ordered the Infinity thin kerf glue line and combo blades. At the moment Infinity is sold out of the Dadonator, in both 6 and 8 inch sizes, so a new dado is on hold.

When it does come back in stock I'm a bit torn. The price difference between the 6 and 8" is negligible. Infinity suggests 6" for saws under 3HP, and the PowerPro is 1.75/2.0. Yet if I recall correctly there are folks here running the 8" Dadonator. _Probably_ I wouldn't regret either choice, but I'm asking for opinions, which I realize will elicit 3 opinions for every 2 Shopsmith owners.

I will give you my opinion. Buy the BEST of each that you can AFFORD. As for the dado blade, I would recommend a 6"; don't allow yourself to be hyped by PowerPro marketing.

dusty wrote:I will give you my opinion. Buy the BEST of each that you can AFFORD. As for the dado blade, I would recommend a 6"; don't allow yourself to be hyped by the PowerPro marketing.

What in the world is that supposed to mean? What is the Power Pro "marketing hype"?

It is rare that a 8" blade is needed. I got one because I also use a dado blade with a sled and the thickness of the sled takes away blade height. I also sometimes work on thicker wood and sometimes that extra 1" is worth it to me.

When I wanted a new dado blade, not needed it but wanted it I went with the 6" Dadonator. I wanted a new blade with less bat ears and the 6" or 8" makes no difference in that. A powerpro I expect would have no problem with the 8" blade and as you mentioned several people here have them.

For most people most of the time 6" is fine and a few dollars less so unless you have a particular use in mind that only the 8" will work for you're better off with the 6" but don't blame me if a reason for the 8" blade comes up for you........ most of the time is never all the time.

I forget the weights on these but they are massive due to extra chipper cutters. My 8" set of another brand has the two tooth chippers and is lighter because of it.

I also have a wobble dado, my first dado and they too have there place in wood working for some of us. It too is a 6".

Ed