Shopsmith Jointer

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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jsburger
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by jsburger »

dusty wrote:
wa2crk wrote:Am I to understand that the 5 holes in the new wedge are not all used as clamp screw holes? Are the two new holes only for access to the jacking screws? From looking at the pic of the Type "C" jointer I might be tempted to try the "hacksaw" remedy.
Bill V
Yes, the two outside holes are for access to the "jack screws". The other three are the screws that secure the wedge to the cutter head.

What pray tell are you thinking about for a "hacksaw remedy".
I certainly have to agree with that. :)
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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wa2crk
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by wa2crk »

It looks like the outer hole in the new wedge is moved far enough over (1/8") so that the hole will not line up with center of the jacking screw's allen socket to provide adjustment. May be wrong but probably would have to see it to be sure. Enlarging the new holes may be an option
Bill V
The new cutter head may have the jacking screw holes moved out to compensate for the 1/8".
Upon further consideration, any alteration of the wedge may introduce an imbalance which could prove dangerous. Slotting the hole which someone already mentioned might be better than the hacksaw and cutting off the end of the wedge and filing the hole to elongate it to the center of the head.
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jsburger
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by jsburger »

wa2crk wrote:It looks like the outer hole in the new wedge is moved far enough over (1/8") so that the hole will not line up with center of the jacking screw's allen socket to provide adjustment. May be wrong but probably would have to see it to be sure. Enlarging the new holes may be an option
Bill V
The new cutter head may have the jacking screw holes moved out to compensate for the 1/8".
Upon further consideration, any alteration of the wedge may introduce an imbalance which could prove dangerous. Slotting the hole which someone already mentioned might be better than the hacksaw and cutting off the end of the wedge and filing the hole to elongate it to the center of the head.
Removing the same amount of material from EACH wedge will not change the balance regardless of the method.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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wa2crk
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by wa2crk »

Burger
You are correct but you would have to remove exactly the same weight from each wedge. At the speed which the cutter head revolves a little weight goes a long way.
I hereby abandon my hack saw comment and now prefer elongating the holes. Or I will give up and buy a new cutter head. NOT!
Bill V
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JPG
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by JPG »

Cut the extra length of the new version down to the 'original' dimensions.
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wa2crk
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by wa2crk »

JPG
Kinda my thoughts in the beginning.
Bill
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dusty
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by dusty »

The only proper and safe solution would, in my opinion, be to purchase 517363 from Shopsmith.

This would provide a new cutter head, new blades, new wedges, bearings and bearing housing. More importantly, it would provide a balanced cutter head assembly that would be SAFE to operate. I am frugal but there are times when you just need to spend some money. This is one of them.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

dusty wrote:The only proper and safe solution would, in my opinion, be to purchase 517363 from Shopsmith.

This would provide a new cutter head, new blades, new wedges, bearings and bearing housing. More importantly, it would provide a balanced cutter head assembly that would be SAFE to operate. I am frugal but there are times when you just need to spend some money. This is one of them.
If the alternative was literally a hacksaw, I'd agree with you. But Shopsmith itself sells a jig for sharpening the jointer knives, and they are just as critical to the cutter-head balance. I see no reason why one couldn't grind the wedges to a precise final length. I'd bet that the Shopsmith length tolerance is no better that 0.005". With your Shopsmith, a good disc-sanding setup, and dial or digital calipers, that tolerance would be pretty easy to achieve.

I'd further bet that Shopsmith does not actually weigh/balance the wedges. Heck, a car engine has entire pistons whizzing back & forth at over 5000 RPM. But I would weigh the wedges anyway, mostly out of curiosity. (I recently lucked into a new triple-beam scientific balance at auction for $30. In my testing, it proved to have repeatability of 0.1 grams and an absolute accuracy of 1 gram. :cool: )

If I was wrong on any of those bets, it would show up as vibration when I spin up the jointer, and then I might consider a more expensive solution.
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dusty
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by dusty »

With issues of this nature, I am simply not a gambling man.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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rjent
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Re: Shopsmith Jointer

Post by rjent »

I think modifying the wedges is a very doable idea. We use to grind down the connecting rods on chevy and Ford engines to balance the engine which made a huge difference. When a small block or big block is spinning 7k to 10k RPM balance is critical. We just use to grind and weigh, grind and weigh, each con rod and cap so they all matched in weight. If we could do that effectively on engines in a far more violent environment, I think the wedges could be done as well ....

JMHO
Dick
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