Needed a Riving Knife

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Greenvilleguy
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Location: Greenville, SC

Post by Greenvilleguy »

Ok, I seem to always be the lone voice in the wilderness.

I cut bevels often for coopered staves to make round turning blanks. (Some may remember the birdhouses I posted). Maybe I've been lucky, but I don't use the upper guard. I do use a push block that is just a piece of 2 x 4 with a sacraficial piece screwed to the back and extending down below the block. I run the blade through the work into the push block so both pieces (finished piece and offcut) are under the block and pushed all the way through the blade.

Is this dangerous? Have I just been lucky?
Doug
Greenville, SC
charlese
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Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

Greenvilleguy wrote:
Is this dangerous? Have I just been lucky?
Yes and yes! Although you are likely being just as safe as you can be in this situation, I recommend you use at least the SS riving knife with the stock pawls. If the plastic guard bothers your operation, just remove that part, but DO use the knife w/pawls.

You'll feel the safety!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

Since I'm the totally sold on riving knives I have to offer my two cents.
I'm totally convinced a properly installed, properly adjusted, properly used riving knife is essental to safe cutting on any saw. I have seen all kinds of blade guards, kickback pawls, splitters and etc. but unless it has a functioning riving knife I tend to stay away from it.

Nick has already instructed me on the importance of kickback pawls but while I have seen a lot of kickback in my day none that I witnessed or experienced was ever happened with only a riving knife alone.

A riving knife should be sized to the blade, it is under size kickback can and will occur. If it oversize it will cause a bind in the cut.

While I don't always have a blade guard in place on my saw (Usually I do!) I will always have a riving knife, even for non through cuts where I have seen and experienced kickback when the wood squeezed on the blade.

I would never think of making a bevel cut on a Shopsmith without a riving knife I can't imagine how you keep the wood from falling into the blade without it.

I'm so sold on riving knifes I'm even considering buying a circular saw that is fitted with a riving knife.
Ed
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dusty
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Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Needed a Riving Knife

Post by dusty »

Is it being said here that there should be a riving knife for the carbide combination blades (older) and a different riving knife for the thin kerf because the blades are different thickness?

I don't believe this is a purchase option from Shopsmith?????
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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