Shopsmith Forums

Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.

billmayo wrote:Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.

Thanks Bill

Now Nick says not to mess with the tensioning spring or the unit will have to be shipped to the factory as we in the field do not have the tools to put it back into the drum. Or are you referring to a different spring?

Thanks
GeorgeM

JPG wrote:Courtesy of Reible

belt sander tension adj.jpg

Now that is a helpful sticker. I wish it was on my belt sander. Would you mind telling me where you found it?

Thanks
GeorgeM

GeorgeM wrote:

JPG wrote:Courtesy of Reible

belt sander tension adj.jpg

Now that is a helpful sticker. I wish it was on my belt sander. Would you mind telling me where you found it?

Thanks
GeorgeM

"Standard issue". Inside the back side of the backup plate.

I have used lithium grease, but do not know about long term effect.

GeorgeM wrote:

billmayo wrote:Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.

Thanks Bill

Now Nick says not to mess with the tensioning spring or the unit will have to be shipped to the factory as we in the field do not have the tools to put it back into the drum. Or are you referring to a different spring?

Thanks
GeorgeM

I did not find removing the tension spring any more difficult than rebuilding the headstock. Actually easier then installing the control sheave bearing. You must keep track of where the washers, roll pins, shims and cams are located and their ordination. Taking or drawing pictures is what I do. The cams can be installed backward if you did not note their high point to the key way. There is a prior picture I posted of the idler drum shaft with the spring loose inside the shaft. I used a screw in the end of spring holder (its threaded) to pull the spring out to where the roll pin can be removed or installed. Different length roll pin in each end of the spring. I find the grease harden like JB Weld in the spring and takes some effort to remove this harden grease. Wire brush and solvent is what I use.

billmayo wrote:

GeorgeM wrote:

billmayo wrote:Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.

Thanks Bill

Now Nick says not to mess with the tensioning spring or the unit will have to be shipped to the factory as we in the field do not have the tools to put it back into the drum. Or are you referring to a different spring?

Thanks
GeorgeM

I did not find removing the tension spring any more difficult than rebuilding the headstock. Actually easier then installing the control sheave bearing. You must keep track of where the washers, roll pins, shims and cams are located and their ordination. Taking or drawing pictures is what I do. The cams can be installed backward if you did not note their high point to the key way. There is a prior picture I posted of the idler drum shaft with the spring loose inside the shaft. I used a screw in the end of spring holder (its threaded) to pull the spring out to where the roll pin can be removed or installed. Different length roll pin in each end of the spring. I find the grease harden like JB Weld in the spring and takes some effort to remove this harden grease. Wire brush and solvent is what I use.

I wonder why Nick says it can't be done in the field.....

GeorgeM

GeorgeM wrote: . . .

I wonder why Nick says it can't be done in the field.....

GeorgeM

There is a difference between can not and not recommended. There are several actions that SS considers beyond the typical owners ability.

Many here are not 'typical'.

This is quite an old post, but I thought I would add a youtube video I did recently showing the complete disassembly of the belt sander including the upper drum assembly. The upper drum is easily taken apart needing no special tools except a cheap gear puller and a 10-24 or 10-32 screw (sorry, can't remember which), nut and washer, to thread into the spring and pull it out so as to re-insert the roll pin. This is not a complicated process and certainly not requiring shipping to the factory.

https://youtu.be/vyAqXFSBm7o