Shopsmith Forums

Bill's advice is dead on for the Jacob Anderson instructional disk. I received mine and I'm closer to solving my problem with the quill spring control unit.
A good investment. IMHO

P.S. welcome to the site from an ex-firefighter.

I spent all day cleaning and shining up the head stock, as i had everything out of there, while i was fixing the pinion spring. hours later i am ready to set the motor in the headstock, To my SUPRISE! i see that the wiring from the GE, cracked all the way to the armature!@#!@$. I hope i can have this fixed, as a new one is several hundred dollars. what a show stopper, all that work into cleaning and lubricating the machine, by the way my dremel tool is owesome for cleaning the SS. Well SS people i have to retire for the night, so if anyone out there can help me find a motor or know that i can get the original one fixed please let me know. Thanks in advance. C'ya all later.

This is not unusal to find the insulation cracked or missing in older motors. I replace all of these wires with #14 wire (#16 wire is standard) and leave about 1-2" of the original wire from the windings so I have something to solder to. I use white wire for the start winding side and blue/black for the run winding side. After soldering, I use heat shrink tubing on the wires to the windings and get as close as I can to the windings with it. I use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. I route the new wires away from touching any windings using plastic ties. Also, I install new wires and terminals to and from the start winding relay/switch. I make the new wires 1-2" longer than the original wires and add insulated clips going to the switch connections. I use plastic ties every 2" on the wires going to the switch and route them over the headstock lock rod when installing the motor to prevent contact with the quadrant of the Speed Cotrol Assy.

Wires, terminals, clips and heat shrink tubing can be found at hardware and big box stores.

I would recommend you change the motor bearings at the same time as you already have most of the motor apart. A trusted friend of mine in Va Beach, VA, Jacob Anderson sells an outstanding DVD set ($29.95 + $3 S&H) on repairing the headstock and the motors. I highly recommend this DVD set for anyone interested in the insides of the headstock and motors in case you need to check/repair either. Just say that I recommended him, thanks. You can contact him directly through his Email address jacobvb@yahoo.com or on Ebay jacobvb_the_s_smith_doc. No kickback for me, just gives you valuable Shopsmith information.

sthomson76@aol.com wrote:I spent all day cleaning and shining up the head stock, as i had everything out of there, while i was fixing the pinion spring. hours later i am ready to set the motor in the headstock, To my SUPRISE! i see that the wiring from the GE, cracked all the way to the armature!@#!@$. I hope i can have this fixed, as a new one is several hundred dollars. what a show stopper, all that work into cleaning and lubricating the machine, by the way my dremel tool is owesome for cleaning the SS. Well SS people i have to retire for the night, so if anyone out there can help me find a motor or know that i can get the original one fixed please let me know. Thanks in advance. C'ya all later.

He also now has a DVD for the bandsaw.

billmayo wrote:This is not unusal to find the insulation cracked or missing in older motors. I replace all of these wires with #14 wire (#16 wire is standard) and leave about 1-2" of the original wire from the windings so I have something to solder to. I use white wire for the start winding side and blue/black for the run winding side. After soldering, I use heat shrink tubing on the wires to the windings and get as close as I can to the windings with it. I use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. I route the new wires away from touching any windings using plastic ties. Also, I install new wires and terminals to and from the start winding relay/switch. I make the new wires 1-2" longer than the original wires and add insulated clips going to the switch connections. I use plastic ties every 2" on the wires going to the switch and route them over the headstock lock rod when installing the motor to prevent contact with the quadrant of the Speed Cotrol Assy.

Wires, terminals, clips and heat shrink tubing can be found at hardware and big box stores.

I would recommend you change the motor bearings at the same time as you already have most of the motor apart. A trusted friend of mine in Va Beach, VA, Jacob Anderson sells an outstanding DVD set ($29.95 + $3 S&H) on repairing the headstock and the motors. I highly recommend this DVD set for anyone interested in the insides of the headstock and motors in case you need to check/repair either. Just say that I recommended him, thanks. You can contact him directly through his Email address jacobvb@yahoo.com or on Ebay jacobvb_the_s_smith_doc. No kickback for me, just gives you valuable Shopsmith information.

Thanks for the help, I am so impressed with this forum, i have never used on before, so if i am replying or doing something wrong please advise. i was going to resolder new wire on them aswell, but i was a unexperienced in soldering windings. as you stated about the wire's known for cracking, SS as far as i have researched uses regular SO cord same as an extension cord. please forgive me if i sound like i know it all but i took my motor today, BEFORE i saw your reply LOL my fault, to a industrial motor repair center, they are going to replace the bearings, dip it, and resolder all the wires using new wire not the SO cable totally restoring it basicaly to brand new condition. they use a special wire, sorry i cant recall what kind it is but it is very flexable and made for motors like the red and blue wires. i also asked him if he could make them longer and put new end on them, i even thought about having him put on Male/Female Disconnects solderless terminals for future teardown maintenence. so i could just unplug the motor with 2 wires and not touch the switch. all that for $75 bucks! i thought that was a deal, considering the rewinding like it looks stock and replacing bearings as well as the dipping. pretty cheap. and i am the first to bring in a SS motor for them, so that was cool. 1 week to do it because this is not an every day thing for them they do HUGE motor repair ac-dc, so they are going to fit it in there schedule. by they way if anyone ever has to do this type of looking around for prices, if you have young kids or borrow someone elses kids bring them with you, they seem to easy on you when it comes to the price! comments please if i could have done this cheaper at home. i just thought i would pass the word, as i am a younger fella and always looking for a better i mean easier way to do things .... Once again, Thank you alll for the help.

Welcome, Scott!

Sounds like you have a good handle on it, and $75 seems a good price. You might do it cheaper yourself, but you need to factor in the time you'd use.

Enjoy!

Hawk

I try to not touch the winding wires, only keep the last inch of the #16 wire where it is soldered to the winding wire. I wrap the #14 stranded wire around the #16 wire and winding wire and solder them all together. Soldering is mainly keeping a clean tip and wait for the contact point to get hot enought to melt solder before trying. I use 3-4" of heat shrink tubing to cover these soldered wires.

You got a great deal for only $75. Motor rewind shops can also add a new wire for the other end of the start windings so you can reverse the motor if needed (some lathe user desires). They can separate the start and run windings from one wire to two wires. The windings will need to be reinsulated/sealed with motor varnish which rewind shops do every day.

I only use the insulated solderless push-on male/female terminals (available at hardware and big box stores). I use male/female sets at the motor for the blue and black wires going to the switch. I use a male/female set at the motor for the white wires. I use the female terminals on the black and blue wires at the switch.