Shopsmith Forums

I would put my money on either the switch or the power cord. They also are the easiest to fix.

charlese wrote:
Not familiar with a model 500, but if you have 4 awitch terminals - put your 2 wires on the other side of the switch.

Called Shopsmith this morning after they opened and talked with Annette? I think. We went through the checklist and then she went to talk to someone. She came back and said it was most likely the switch. Ordered it and it cost $36 with shipping included and will be here in about 7 - 10 days. That will give me time to do some organization on queued projects. Thanks, Charles.

Gator

ERLover wrote:It maybe a number of things, a process of elimination, the switch could be bad, connect the switch terminals, if it runs then it is the switch. If not then it is more likely the capasiter or motor, my money is on the switch.

Ordered a switch. In the meantime, will test the switch using Charles instructions. That will give more info. Thanks for your response.

Gator

jpg,
I don't have an ohmmeter. Nor do I know how to use it. But, following Charles instructions, will give me an idea about the switch. I do have a voltmeter and can check the voltage on the back of the switch. Will know tomorrow afternoon.

Follow up question, which is easier way to access the switch. The access port seems very small for my hands. Has anyone been successful going through the motor pan? Or do I need to remove all those sheaves and belts?

Again, thank you in advance for all your help.

Gator

If your machine is truly a 1984 it should have a standard toggle switch. It can be removed by removing the nut with the slots from the switch from the outside and pushing the switch into the headstock. I think that there is enough room to draw the switch out through the rear inspection hole. Reconnect the new switch and install in reverse. MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUG IS REMOVED FROM THE WALL OUTLET BEFORE YOU PUT YOUR HANDS INSIDE THE HEADSTOCK. Nasty things can happen if you don't. Make sure that you dress the wires so they don't get caught in the speed control quadrant's gears or get fouled by other moving parts.
Bill V

Gator, where did you find a voltmeter that doesn't have an ohmmeter on board?

I've NEVER seen a multimeter that doesn't do ohms. Even (free) Harbor freight
meters do ohms. (Get them with the coupon. Yes, they work.)

steve

I tie a piece of string on the existing switch and lower it down the removed pan, then with the new switch wires installed I tie the string to it and pull it back up.

You can get a pretty good idea about whether the switch works or not just by testing continuity at the power plug and turning the switch on and off. If when the switch is changed you see a change in the reading the switch is likely good. When the switch is off the reading should be infinity (an open). When the switch is on the reading should be a near short.

This is not a definitive test at all and if you have a problem with the cord, motor or switch, this tells you nothing more than you have a problem. However, if these characteristics are exhibited, I would hesitate to tear into the headstock without some other checking/testing.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... ch#p149990

My apologies for being so slow in responding. Life gets in the way with out of towners, grandchildren and such. Today, had the chance to perform the test suggested by Charles. Realized no power when the machine was plugged in. Hmmmmm! So remembered what jpg and Dusty stated. The GCFI led was glowing. Plugged in a 12 guage extension cord and no power. Making no sense. Looking at the outlet, I realized I had plugged everything into a circuit breaker protected multiple plug. Hmmm! Tested basic outlet and power. Tested multiple plug device and no power. Right on, jpg and Dusty. Reset the circuit breaker on the multiple plug device, plugged in the Shopsmith and turned on the Shopsmith power switch. Viola! It ran. Thanks folks for making me be more thorough in my steps. Will retiring the multiple outlet device when using the Shopsmith. It was easier to plug in multiple devices with the extra tool, so I didn't have to go back and forth plugging and unplugging. Since I ran only one at a time, I knew it would not bother to hurt the 20 amp circuit. Just didn't want to wear out the outlets by all the plugging and unplugging. Also, will ensure that each time I start any project, that I inspect that circuit breaker. Now, will have an extra switch if I ever need it. I did learn a couple of things with this experience.

Steve, the voltmeter that I have is an old one from Sears in the early 1970's. Back when I was making $2.99 an hour, I paid over $30 for a stripped down model which has served me well for more than 40 years. I've been tempted several times to upgrade. Will visit Harbor Freight in a few days and get one of those. Another lesson to learn.

Thanks, everyone for the team work and education. Couldn't have figured it out without you. Your suggestions made me examine closely until I found the problem. The real problem is I'm not smart enough to own a Shopsmith.

Unless you use a voltmeter frequently, it is my opinion that that old one will probably serve you are well as any new one from Harbor Freight.

Even though I have some fairly sophisticated equipment (because it was the tools of my trade), I very often use an inexpensive volt/ohmmeter that dates way back.