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Nope, that's how a 520 is supposed to work. But if the fence isn't square to the table when you read the magnetic scale, you'll get a slight measurement error (due to the offset between the front clamp pads and the scale). And if you slip a rule under the fence and measure to a saw blade tooth (as I sometimes do if it's faster than zeroing the magnetic scale), a non-square fence will give you a huge measurement error. So we were just discussing techniques for squaring up the fence.rjent wrote:I don't know squat here, but I like using the magnetic scale on the table. I set the (usually takes 2 or 3 attempts) to get the fence to just kiss the blade, then zero the magnet scale, then move to the width of cut and set the locks. I then measure the blade to fence distance, and it is usually right where I want it .... Is this wrong?
We must be since we are all making saw dust and not complaining about miscuts.BuckeyeDennis wrote:I think that you, jsburger, and I are all in agreement, with the minor exception that jsburger and I use the front clamp lever (partial engagement, in my case) to square up the fence, even for the initial distance reading. Specifically, I don't take the clamp lever "over-center" until the scale reading is where I want it.dusty wrote:Are there two different methods being stated here for aligning the 520 fence. It seems that some feel it is necessary to push the front of the rip fence against to rail to make it square itself while others feel that it will square itself when locked to the rail.
I believe that it will square itself when locked but that it might not be located where you want it. I pressure the fence against the rail when I am relocating it so that I can properly read the indicator but I rely on the lock to square it to the rail. I do the same thing (sorta) with the 510.
Both the 510 and the 520 fences preposition themselves to the prealigned position when the locks are applied. Both must be locked at the rear before relying on them.