Shopsmith Forums

FWIW - A bent coat hanger put into the chuck works good too

charlese wrote:FWIW - A bent coat hanger put into the chuck works good too

It 'calibrated' in 0.001"?

JPG wrote:

charlese wrote:FWIW - A bent coat hanger put into the chuck works good too

It 'calibrated' in 0.001"?

I have a brand spankety new feeler gauge to go with it.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

charlese wrote:FWIW - A bent coat hanger put into the chuck works good too

It 'calibrated' in 0.001"?

I have a brand spankety new feeler gauge to go with it.

That's overkill!

Besides our table does not tilt sideways!

Hmmm! Since I use a piece of MDF on top of the table, along with the coat hanger, a feeler gauge would come in handy. Thanks, John!

Concerning tilt side to side (front to back in the saw mounting) it can be fixed in drill press configuration.

Such a side to side test should be a must have for those guys working so hard to get auxillary tables to a zero tolerance.

charlese wrote:Hmmm! Since I use a piece of MDF on top of the table, along with the coat hanger, a feeler gauge would come in handy. Thanks, John!

Concerning tilt side to side (front to back in the saw mounting) it can be fixed in drill press configuration.

Such a side to side test should be a must have for those guys working so hard to get auxillary tables to a zero tolerance.

It is not so much that they NEED to be zero tolerance but that you should be able to get closer than apparently you can in most cases.

Speaking of front to back tilt. Has anyone checked their band saw for front to back tilt? There is nothing in my manual about it. I tried to cut some tenon cheeks after cutting the shoulders on the table saw. It was about 3" wide stock. The table was out of square so far that I could not cut the cheek off without the blade cutting into the good stock. Lots of shimming of the table to trunion finally fixed it.

charlese wrote:FWIW - A bent coat hanger put into the chuck works good too

Yes the old tried and true coat hanger, as good as it was back in the 1950's.

This has the same potential flaw however. And yes I have done it that way in days of old.

So for those of you who know, how many points to make a line? Who said two? Now if we want to create a plane how many points? Its not the tool but how you use it that counts.

Ed

charlese wrote:Hmmm! Since I use a piece of MDF on top of the table, along with the coat hanger, a feeler gauge would come in handy. Thanks, John!

Concerning tilt side to side (front to back in the saw mounting) it can be fixed in drill press configuration.

Such a side to side test should be a must have for those guys working so hard to get auxillary tables to a zero tolerance.

I too use an auxiliary drill table for drilling, well unless I don't. If I'm worried about the other axis then I do, and if I worry about damaging the table I do but for some off hand drilling I just use a chunk of something on the table to keep the holes cleaner on the through side.

Since we have discussed the issues with shimming the table in that axes before I will not go into it again. Do it if you want to but there are consequences. I find it better to shim the auxiliary drill table instead.

Ed

jsburger wrote:

charlese wrote:Hmmm! Since I use a piece of MDF on top of the table, along with the coat hanger, a feeler gauge would come in handy. Thanks, John!

Concerning tilt side to side (front to back in the saw mounting) it can be fixed in drill press configuration.

Such a side to side test should be a must have for those guys working so hard to get auxillary tables to a zero tolerance.

It is not so much that they NEED to be zero tolerance but that you should be able to get closer than apparently you can in most cases.

Speaking of front to back tilt. Has anyone checked their band saw for front to back tilt? There is nothing in my manual about it. I tried to cut some tenon cheeks after cutting the shoulders on the table saw. It was about 3" wide stock. The table was out of square so far that I could not cut the cheek off without the blade cutting into the good stock. Lots of shimming of the table to trunion finally fixed it.

Time to read the manual again. The tilt is by design and built into every shopsmith band saw. I'll let you look for it as I don't have access to my manual at the moment but we have had this discussion before and I have quoted it before.....

Ed

reible wrote:

jsburger wrote:

charlese wrote:Hmmm! Since I use a piece of MDF on top of the table, along with the coat hanger, a feeler gauge would come in handy. Thanks, John!

Concerning tilt side to side (front to back in the saw mounting) it can be fixed in drill press configuration.

Such a side to side test should be a must have for those guys working so hard to get auxillary tables to a zero tolerance.

It is not so much that they NEED to be zero tolerance but that you should be able to get closer than apparently you can in most cases.

Speaking of front to back tilt. Has anyone checked their band saw for front to back tilt? There is nothing in my manual about it. I tried to cut some tenon cheeks after cutting the shoulders on the table saw. It was about 3" wide stock. The table was out of square so far that I could not cut the cheek off without the blade cutting into the good stock. Lots of shimming of the table to trunion finally fixed it.

Time to read the manual again. The tilt is by design and built into every shopsmith band saw. I'll let you look for it as I don't have access to my manual at the moment but we have had this discussion before and I have quoted it before.....

Ed

I will look ED when I get home next weekend. I am in Sacramento now. I guess the question is why??? Now you have a band saw that can't perform a function that it is good at.

FWIW, my band saw works just fine with the table square front to back to the blade. So the question remains why? A link to the thread you referenced would help if you know it. The only thing that matters is the blade tracking on the tires and that it stays on. The backup bearings and cant provide that. The band saw will run fine without the table installed so how can front to back square make any difference other than I can't cut tenon cheeks.