Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
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- BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
It boggles my mind that those diodes were left flopping around in the middle of the hookup wiring, with the connections neither insulated and nor properly restrained. Was that definitely done by the manufacturer?
Could those exposed conductors simply have shorted to chassis ground? That certainly could explain blown diodes.
Could those exposed conductors simply have shorted to chassis ground? That certainly could explain blown diodes.
- rjent
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Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
The diodes are actually acting like a crude rectifier creating a very dirty DC current like Bill points out above. I have to wonder why .....
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
I had to cut off the shrink tubing to get to them.BuckeyeDennis wrote:It boggles my mind that those diodes were left flopping around in the middle of the hookup wiring, with the connections neither insulated and nor properly restrained. Was that definitely done by the manufacturer?
Could those exposed conductors simply have shorted to chassis ground? That certainly could explain blown diodes.
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
The orange wire has soot on it. There is a scorch mark on the white wire.wa2crk wrote:Referring to pic "diode2" is the orange wire just below the blown diode burned?
In pic "diode1" there appears to be a scorch mark on the white wire left of the diode. Correct? Or not.Bill V
I don't understand any of the technical jargon. I don't know what a diode does. So, if I replace these are they directional (like a battery) or can I have them any direction?
What happens if I eliminate the diodes?
- everettdavis
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Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
Let's start with some more basic info.
What is the brand and model of the toaster oven?
There may be a schematic or some repair info out there for this model, even recall or service bulletin info.
What is the brand and model of the toaster oven?
There may be a schematic or some repair info out there for this model, even recall or service bulletin info.
- JPG
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Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
You betcha! They have a band on one end. It appears both were banded the same(the 'right' end).db5 wrote:The orange wire has soot on it. There is a scorch mark on the white wire.wa2crk wrote:Referring to pic "diode2" is the orange wire just below the blown diode burned?
In pic "diode1" there appears to be a scorch mark on the white wire left of the diode. Correct? Or not.Bill V
I don't understand any of the technical jargon. I don't know what a diode does. So, if I replace these are they directional (like a battery) or can I have them any direction?
What happens if I eliminate the diodes?
Question is, why are they there/what do they do? They make no sense to me at this point.
It is difficult to see where the wires they connect to go.
I understand the timer switch/bell.
I understand the temperature 'control'.
I be curious what the 'modes' are.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
JPG et al
The diodes only conduct on one half of the AC cycle. They are connected in parallel so that the current will divide and the load is split between the two diodes. If one diode were to open then all of the current would have to go through one remaining diode most likely over loading it. Everything in the toaster looks to be clean.
I have had lighting fixtures that had a high and low function and all that was done was to put a diode in the AC line when the low light function was selected effectively applying only half voltage to the bulb (incandescent of course). If the diodes are in the heater circuit they would only conduct on one half of the AC cycle. It would actually work but the elements would take longer to heat up but they would get hot. The diodes being in parallel would both conduct on the same half cycle but the current would divide between the two of them.
Bill V
The diodes only conduct on one half of the AC cycle. They are connected in parallel so that the current will divide and the load is split between the two diodes. If one diode were to open then all of the current would have to go through one remaining diode most likely over loading it. Everything in the toaster looks to be clean.
I have had lighting fixtures that had a high and low function and all that was done was to put a diode in the AC line when the low light function was selected effectively applying only half voltage to the bulb (incandescent of course). If the diodes are in the heater circuit they would only conduct on one half of the AC cycle. It would actually work but the elements would take longer to heat up but they would get hot. The diodes being in parallel would both conduct on the same half cycle but the current would divide between the two of them.
Bill V
- rjent
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Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
Outstanding Bill!wa2crk wrote:JPG et al
The diodes only conduct on one half of the AC cycle. They are connected in parallel so that the current will divide and the load is split between the two diodes. If one diode were to open then all of the current would have to go through one remaining diode most likely over loading it. Everything in the toaster looks to be clean.
I have had lighting fixtures that had a high and low function and all that was done was to put a diode in the AC line when the low light function was selected effectively applying only half voltage to the bulb (incandescent of course). If the diodes are in the heater circuit they would only conduct on one half of the AC cycle. It would actually work but the elements would take longer to heat up but they would get hot. The diodes being in parallel would both conduct on the same half cycle but the current would divide between the two of them.
Bill V
That seems very plausible. If there is two settings on temperature control, I think you could prove Bill's theory to be correct. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why they needed a rectifier on a heating element, but Bill's idea is right on and would explain it.
As always, JMHO
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
I take issue with paralleling diodes in an attempt to 'split the current'. No way will it divide 'equally' with over a hundred volts applied to the circuit. Now if each diode only 'fed' one element 'each' then it would make sense.
I cannot tell if the two elements were connected in parallel or series.
A reason for my 'mode' question.
Yep a maker/model/schematic would be quite helpful here.(or hands on
)
I cannot tell if the two elements were connected in parallel or series.
A reason for my 'mode' question.
Yep a maker/model/schematic would be quite helpful here.(or hands on
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
The make is Euro-Pro Model T0242RW. I couldn't find a schematic online. Two pictures that should help.
In the first the AC line in goes to the diodes which are parallel. Note that one side splits off to the bottom heating element on the far left and also is connected to the function control. That control changes it from bake, broil, rotisserie and toast. the other diode also connects to the function control and the top heating element just out of sight in the lower right.
The white wire with soot on it was tied with a zip tie just above the diode that self destructed.
The second picture is of the controls from the front. Left is the Off/timer control, middle the function control and on the right the temperature control.
In the first the AC line in goes to the diodes which are parallel. Note that one side splits off to the bottom heating element on the far left and also is connected to the function control. That control changes it from bake, broil, rotisserie and toast. the other diode also connects to the function control and the top heating element just out of sight in the lower right.
The white wire with soot on it was tied with a zip tie just above the diode that self destructed.
The second picture is of the controls from the front. Left is the Off/timer control, middle the function control and on the right the temperature control.
- Attachments
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- Diode 4.JPG (99.66 KiB) Viewed 2023 times
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- Diode 5.JPG (45.75 KiB) Viewed 2023 times