Shopsmith Forums

"Galvanic corrosion", perchance?

Several years back, when my 2001 Avalon had only about 100k miles, one of my tires was pierced by a piece of truck junk while exiting the freeway on my way home from work. Thump .. thump .. thump .. I barely made it to the corner gas station before it went flat.

So I jacked it up and removed the lug nuts, getting ready to swap on the spare. But the wheel was stuck tight to the hub, and I couldn't break it free, even with my very best Chuck Norris karate kicks. WTF???

Swallowing my pride, I called AAA to rescue me. After a while, a wrecker showed up, and I explained my problem. The guy nodded, walked to the back of his tow truck, and pulled out a well-used piece of 4x4, maybe 4' long. Then he laid down on the ground and started whacking mightily on my wheel, from underneath the car. After 3 or 4 whacks, the wheel popped loose. I'm pretty sure that "galvanic corrosion" is what he said. Aluminum alloy wheels bolted to steel hubs, combined with plenty of salt water every winter.

Epilogue: the Avalon now has about 200k miles, and is serving my oldest daughter very well at college. The engine and drivetrain still work like new.

Thanks Cris, b4 JPG nailed me!!!!!!!

ChrisNeilan wrote:Galvanic corrosion....

Them be the correct words.


BTW the headrest also came as 2 holers and 4 holers.

It was a 4 holer, as well as my other 2

Well that was easy, the guy had belts on it for the lowest speed apparently,(size). A 4L 240 and a 4L 230. I got the belts off, which was keeping it from moving, and all works fine, moves as easy as when new. I still am going to clean it up.

Those belt lengths are not correct. Original belts were 25 1/2 and 22 1/2.

I would use 25 and 22.

They should vary in length by 3". Motor/quill pulley are 2" and 4" and the idler pulley provides the third inch difference(+/- 1/2")


BTW 'adjust only when pulleys are rotating' is REALLY important with this speed changer and applies to either direction. Also no faster than the center sheave can keep up(those springs should NEVER be fully compressed).

ERLover wrote:Well that was easy, the guy had belts on it for the lowest speed apparently,(size). A 4L 240 and a 4L 230. I got the belts off, which was keeping it from moving, and all works fine, moves as easy as when new. I still am going to clean it up.

Oh, you did not say that originally. Just like the MK V you do not adjust the 10ER speed changer without it turning. Now you know why. Both work on the same principal. BTW, for those that don't know this type of variable speed adjuster is called a Reeves drive.

I did not look at the belt sizes till this afternoon. I have the speed changer off the way tubes, and it has been a couple years since I took the one off my other ER and cleaned it up, but I cant get the sheaves to shift in width from where they are at the moment. Dont recall all about their workings from 2 years ago.

Memory is coming back bit, the center sheave should move back and forth, it is frozen all the way to one side, I guess the ATF and MS will need to be applied, any other suggestions appreciated.

ERLover wrote:Memory is coming back bit, the center sheave should move back and forth, it is frozen all the way to one side, I guess the ATF and MS will need to be applied, any other suggestions appreciated.

IIRC, loosen the knurled knob and remove the pulley. It needs to rotate freely on the shaft also. Bushing rides on shaft, center sheave slides on bushing. Been a while fer me too.

SEE CORRECTION BELOW.