Bob
Your bottlestoppers are real neat. Some fine work.
I also found you and wifes web site quite interesting. My wife is diabetic and this site has led me to some articles that I think may be very informatitive. Some of the opinion statements (mythes) are also interesting.
Making Bottlestoppers
Moderator: admin
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tooldreamer
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 8:00 pm
Wine Bottle Stoppers
I also made stoppers for Christmas and a dinner party as party favors. I highly recommend a visit to the Arizona Sihloutte website. He has many, many great ideas and products for wine stoppers.
I bought some wine bottle stopper parts from Lee Valley that had a recessed base to accept a tenon or other part. They cam with cork stoppers that thread into the base. I detached the corks and threw them away. The stoppers from Woodcraft are threaded the same. It can make a very dramatic, if large, bottle stopper. The wide recessed base also give you artistic freedom to make all kinds of shapes without being constricted by the shape of the stopper itself.
I also experimented with making logos on my computer, printing them onto photo paper, cutting them out with punches from a craft store and then embedding them into a counter bore in the tops to the stoppers. I then used a two part polyester resin to fill the counter bore. It machines like butter (ribbons). I got the idea from the Arizona Sihloutte site. He has a few demos on the use of the material. I got my plastic supplies from TAP plastic supply stores, a retail chain here in Northern California.
Unfortunately, I gave all the stoppers away before I thought of taking a picture. I have two practice models. I will make a photo and post.
I also made a lot of jigs to drill and center the holes for tapping threads and counter bores, but found it was a waste of time. I just slipped a drill chuck into the tail stock and used a Oneway Chuck to hold the mandrel that I bought from Arizona Sihloutte or Woodcraft. I then just bored away. Perfectly centered holes every time.
I used the drill press mode to drill my starter holes for the mandrel. I just sanded one end of the block of would to ensure that the end for the mandrel was 90 degrees to one side of the block of wood. I then just clamped it to the fence and drilled a pilot hole. I then hand tapped the wood for the threads and mounted it for counter boring and then turning.
I bought some wine bottle stopper parts from Lee Valley that had a recessed base to accept a tenon or other part. They cam with cork stoppers that thread into the base. I detached the corks and threw them away. The stoppers from Woodcraft are threaded the same. It can make a very dramatic, if large, bottle stopper. The wide recessed base also give you artistic freedom to make all kinds of shapes without being constricted by the shape of the stopper itself.
I also experimented with making logos on my computer, printing them onto photo paper, cutting them out with punches from a craft store and then embedding them into a counter bore in the tops to the stoppers. I then used a two part polyester resin to fill the counter bore. It machines like butter (ribbons). I got the idea from the Arizona Sihloutte site. He has a few demos on the use of the material. I got my plastic supplies from TAP plastic supply stores, a retail chain here in Northern California.
Unfortunately, I gave all the stoppers away before I thought of taking a picture. I have two practice models. I will make a photo and post.
I also made a lot of jigs to drill and center the holes for tapping threads and counter bores, but found it was a waste of time. I just slipped a drill chuck into the tail stock and used a Oneway Chuck to hold the mandrel that I bought from Arizona Sihloutte or Woodcraft. I then just bored away. Perfectly centered holes every time.
I used the drill press mode to drill my starter holes for the mandrel. I just sanded one end of the block of would to ensure that the end for the mandrel was 90 degrees to one side of the block of wood. I then just clamped it to the fence and drilled a pilot hole. I then hand tapped the wood for the threads and mounted it for counter boring and then turning.
Thanks, Dean. I have tried that several times, but when I try to upload the small .doc file, I get an error screen saying there has been a failure of the forum database, so the uploads don't occur. This didn't happen with my previous uploads. The Webmaster has not been able to give me an answer, so I will just post the uploads to my other Web site for people to access.
Best wishes.
--Bob
Best wishes.
--Bob
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Greenvilleguy
- Gold Member
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:55 pm
- Location: Greenville, SC
Ok Bob -- you really created a monster. You've got me started making bottlestoppers and I now I can't stop.
I had made some simple ones before, but now I've figured out they are a great way to practice beads, coves, ogees, skew work, etc. They don't require much material and very little time and you can be as creative as you like.
In an earlier post, I stated that I just glue a dowel in the blank, insert the dowel in the jacobs chuck and turn. Well, after tooldreamer sent me to the Arizona Sihloutte website, I've switched to using a 3/8" lag screw with the head removed in the jacobs chuck. A 3/8" hole in the blank fits well with the lag screw and still allows me to glue a 3/8" dowel into the hole at the end of the process.
I'm now glueing the cork on the dowel first, then glueing the cork and dowel into the finished top. I also broke down and bought some corks at Packard for about a dime apiece.
I had made some simple ones before, but now I've figured out they are a great way to practice beads, coves, ogees, skew work, etc. They don't require much material and very little time and you can be as creative as you like.
In an earlier post, I stated that I just glue a dowel in the blank, insert the dowel in the jacobs chuck and turn. Well, after tooldreamer sent me to the Arizona Sihloutte website, I've switched to using a 3/8" lag screw with the head removed in the jacobs chuck. A 3/8" hole in the blank fits well with the lag screw and still allows me to glue a 3/8" dowel into the hole at the end of the process.
I'm now glueing the cork on the dowel first, then glueing the cork and dowel into the finished top. I also broke down and bought some corks at Packard for about a dime apiece.