Shopsmith Forums

Ed in Tampa wrote: I love the SS sharpening guide as it helps me define the correct angle I need and then I switch to the wet dry sand paper. I can touch up the edge quickly and easily even when I'm out of the shop.

Exactly the same conclusion I have come to.

A few years ago one of the ww catalogs was offering a machined flat piece of granite stone...I got one and installed it on a small benchtop and use it as a base for "scary sharpening", holding the chisel or plane iron in the new Veritas jig. The SS guide is used more for shaping or grinding...the actual honing/sharpening takes place on sandpaper at the stone. Chisels can be touched up a number of times before needing to be re-shaped. So far this "system" meets my requirements of working acceptably well at an affordable cost.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I...
I think too many of us try to subsititute developing a skill with buying something that is foolproof.

...

The money and time I saved on either sending my blades out to be sharpened or filing them myself has more than paid for the tool.
Ed

Since this is a hobby for most of us the time to develop the skill just isn't there. And having these machines and using them allows us to start getting the feel of holding the tool at the proper angle.

And even the old time grindstones had braces attached so that tools could be held against them for proper sharpening.

And your final sentence says it all . . . "more than paid for the tool." That is one of my considerations for buying any new tool. Will the tool save me enough (wood, time, frustration, whatever) to pay for itself, make me more productive, extend my abilities? And where do I want to spend my energies? It's all a balance.

Hawk

brown_hawk wrote:Since this is a hobby for most of us the time to develop the skill just isn't there. And having these machines and using them allows us to start getting the feel of holding the tool at the proper angle.

And even the old time grindstones had braces attached so that tools could be held against them for proper sharpening.

And your final sentence says it all . . . "more than paid for the tool." That is one of my considerations for buying any new tool. Will the tool save me enough (wood, time, frustration, whatever) to pay for itself, make me more productive, extend my abilities? And where do I want to spend my energies? It's all a balance.

Hawk

I must be lower to the ground because my point of balance is a long way from the big bucks most of these sharpening appliances cost. Of course my wife says I'm so cheap I throw quarters around like they are manhole covers.
Ed

Ed in Tampa wrote:I must be lower to the ground because my point of balance is a long way from the big bucks most of these sharpening appliances cost. Of course my wife says I'm so cheap I throw quarters around like they are manhole covers.
Ed

I know that it may not seem like it from some of the reviews I've popped up lately, but I tend in that direction also. That's why I'm trying to build kitchen cabinets instead of buying them. When I'm done, I've got the cabinets AND the tools are paid for. (And still got the cabinets at half price. )

I've also had in mind something Dusty posted, (at least I think it was Dusty). He said he wished he'd bought a few things when he had a more disposable income than he does now.

Basically, buy good quality stuff now, it will be around when I retire.

On this topic, I would recommend the SS system as the most cost effective for sharpening the chisels and blades for someone just starting out. A kit and two disks (3 grits) will run $200. The strip sander attachment will run $100. For the planer/jointer blades, its $65 for the guide and 3 disks at $50 each. But the disks can be used for other things.

A WS3000 is $200, and a Jet (Tormek clone) is $300, and a Tormek is $500. With the last three, extra attachments and jigs will run up the cost, but those can be bought over time. No other use than sharpening, but that is done very well.

Like I said, it's a balance of needs, wants, nice, and $.

Meanwhile, have your wife double stitch your pockets so that those manholes don't tear out the bottom of the pockets.

Hawk

PS It is also good to remember that you can buy good tools for a lot of money, but they won't take the place of care and craftmanship. A tool is a tool, no matter what the price. It doesn't have a heart for the wood. That always comes from within.

Thanks for the reminder!

I agree with the buying what you can afford - most of my tools including the Mk5 are second hand - I am blessed? with the ability to look and perceive the nature of the machine and methodically dismantle and rebuild. Hence the ss is 'like new'. That being said I bought a preloved grinder and replaced the wheels - one 80 grit (rough) for grinding and one alumin oxide 100grit for sharpening and given a combination grinder water wheel unit that has 120 grit and water stone for honing. Then built jigs to hold the chisels and plane blades. Now this aint perfect but I get a pretty keen edge on the tuning tools. I also have a buffer wheel mounted on the 'other end' when turning to polish the chisels. I use polishing rouge on this.
My humble point is money spent on doing it one's self to me seems better that getting it done for me. Alright I do get stuck sometimes hence the posts here.
But nothing better than having a go and learning from the experience.
The scary sharp method I use (over plate glass mounting) more for the plane blades and get good results - final stage is 1800 wet & dry - face of edge like a mirror
Just my 2 cents worth.
regards
Sandy

All the replies, and comments are right on the money. However, there are some cold realities to "scary sharp" tools.
First of all, one must believe and realize that unless they are Japanese tools, all brand new tools need sharpening! What we used to believe was sharp is no comparison to "scary sharp!"
I believe that all of us have discovered the joy of working with sharp tools. Sharp tools are safer to work with, and protect our wood projects and us humans from mishap
Over the years, most of us have tried various methods to sharpen our tools, blades, etc. One may have in their drawers various devices to sharpen tools.
But, the reality of the situation is that one must devote some time to learn to sharpen their tools properly. The initial sharpening of a blade to achieve "scary sharp" may take some time, but once achieved, it becomes a joy to work with.
You quickly learn to make the time to keep your tools very sharp, and come to learn that maintaining a sharp edge takes very little time.....a few strokes here and there!
Personally, I use a combination of Water Stones (little or no future expense once purchased), the various ShopSmith accessories for lathe tools, jointer blades, along with the SS Strip Sander, and honing compound. For me, it just depends on what the item is that needs sharpening. Most of the time, the water stones are ideal, but you cannot go wrong with the SS accessories, or strip sander.
No matter what method you use, do take the time to learn what a sharp edge really is, how to achieve that scary sharp edge with the method you are using (consider it another skill that you will have learned) and you will never be sorry.
In fact, do not be surprised if your wife, friends or neighbors flood you with requests to put an "edge" on one of their tools.

Good Luck!
FlashbacPT
John

Hi All,

I myself use an 8-inch bench grinder to sharpen most of my tools that need sharpening.

For my turning chisels, I have the Wolverine System made by Oneway in Canada. It works great for getting the bevel right on the money. But if my chisel just needs a touch-up while I'm turning, I use a credit card sized diamond hone to bring the sharpness back. Just a couple of strokes and its ready to go again.

I've used the SS guide in the past, but now prefer the method I use. I don't have to worry about having the sharpening setup on my Shopsmith while woodturning at the same time.

I agree with Woodburner the Wolverine system is the only chisel method I have tried that worked right from the very first time I used it. The have a video on their web site that takes the mystery out of sharpening. Jim

woodburner wrote:Hi All,
I don't have to worry about having the sharpening setup on my Shopsmith while woodturning at the same time.

That's one reason I use the belt sander for the Shopsmith sharpening guide rather than the sanding disk. All I would have to do, is move the headstock. It would be easy to replace the turning back on the tail piece.

Actually, I've never had a need to use the sander sharpening method while turning. I also touch up with a leather strop or a diamond card.