This almost hurt to watch. A clear case of posting what not to do........ did you see how far forward the blade was? Did you see how far it was from the back up bearings? Just luck he didn't get hurt.
If you haven't watched it then consider yourself better off. Well OK go ahead and watch but just remember once you do you can never seen it there is no going back to having not seen it.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
This almost hurt to watch. A clear case of posting what not to do........ did you see how far forward the blade was? Did you see how far it was from the back up bearings? Just luck he didn't get hurt.
If you haven't watched it then consider yourself better off. Well OK go ahead and watch but just remember once you do you can never seen it there is no going back to having not seen it.
Ed
What?
Sorry Ed, I don't know what you are talking about. I watched the video twice. What did I miss? I certainly didn't see anything the video that showed "how far it was from the back up bearings". He never had the blade tensioned up in the video.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
reible wrote:The bearings do not need adjustment but the guides do......... unless you are replacing the same blade or one that is the same width and thickness.
Ed
Why? Whats make the SS BS different?
By design the shopsmith band saw uses the back of the blade as the reference plane. Any and all blades that fit the saw are all referenced by the auto-track roller (bearing) with the help of the upper and lower blade guide rollers (bearings). The top one is only engaged while cutting. Once you have these three set up that is where the blade goes, and that is to the back of the wheels/tires. This means that the only adjustments needed that might be needed are to the tension of the blade and the location and position of the guides.
I upgraded my bandsaw a couple of years ago and it has required no additional adjustments to the bearings since then.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
This was an earlier video then the ones referenced. This is what I was speaking about:
ScreenHunter_83 Jan. 10 18.42.jpg (51.19 KiB) Viewed 8542 times
You can also see how loose the tire was on the saw when he takes it off if you care to.
After watching this I guess I became confused as to which video contained what and posted what I did. He does better in the two listed videos. The one I referenced above is the one I had stuck in my head. Sorry.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Reible/Ed,
thanks did not know, but does not surprise me the mother ship does so many things right that others do not!!!! I am so used to on my Delta BS make all those other adjustments if I change blade sizes. Just wish SS made it a 14" er.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
I'm glad to hear about the adjustment just being the blocks. I want to start using it to resaw for some small boxes. From what ii've learned the only bearing that the blade does not touch is the upper bearing above the table/lower bearing.
I did come across that posting and found it so informative i printed it out and plan on taking it to my bandsaw and just start going through the pages i printed while identifying everything at the bandsaw. I'm sure i'll have more questions when i'm done going through it.
This was an earlier video then the ones referenced. This is what I was speaking about:
ScreenHunter_83 Jan. 10 18.42.jpg
You can also see how loose the tire was on the saw when he takes it off if you care to.
After watching this I guess I became confused as to which video contained what and posted what I did. He does better in the two listed videos. The one I referenced above is the one I had stuck in my head. Sorry.
Ed
OMG!!!!!
Just to clarify proper positioning of the front upper blade backup bearing, the blade should just barely clear the bearing when NOT cutting and should contact the bearing when feeding the workpiece. That is the ONLY bearing that is adjustable in that direction. The other two(rear upper guide bearing and front lower guide bearing(under the table)) are NOT adjustable towards/away from the base. The other thing that is unique re the SS bandsaw is the wheels them selves. The outer surface is flat(with a rear ridge), but also very slightly beveled and the upper wheel is canted(top in) at twice that bevel angle. All that should cause the back of the blade to track about 1/4" from the back of the wheel. The blade moves in a plane that matches the wheel bevel angles so the blade rides flat around the wheels. If not about 1/4", the upper wheel cant is wrong.
At least he did correct things in the other two videos.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
billmayo wrote:I highly recommend reviewing this reference in the Shopsmith Forum posts for adjusting the bandsaw blade tracking starting on 08-05-2011 by JPG40504: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... djustments
The pictures helps me to understand this procedure when replacing the blade tracking bearings.
I have this in a Word document (with pictures) and can convert it to PDF if anyone wants a copy.
