Shopsmith Forums

putttn wrote:I did call Forrest and they were as perplexed as I am. They did suggest that I spray WD40 and keep it away from heat. One fella suggested putting in the freezer but it's been in my garage when the temp was below 32.

So will they take it back and send a new set? Did you ask? If they were perplexed I would think they would like to see what the problem is. After all they are a very high quality company.

I would continue to pressure them on the phone. It sounds like you have not gotten to the right person yet. Try what they suggested and if it doesn't work call again.

jsburger wrote:

dusty wrote:Has anyone thought about calling Forrest Customer Service (1-800-733-7111) and asking them for "qualified advice"?

I think I just said that.

Damned if you didn't!!!

putttn wrote:I did call Forrest and they were as perplexed as I am. They did suggest that I spray WD40 and keep it away from heat. One fella suggested putting in the freezer but it's been in my garage when the temp was below 32.

Think that could possibly be a clue?

Forrest did tell me to call them back if the WD40 doesn't work. Not sure what you're referring to JPG? I have a lot of "iron" in my garage that's not affected by the cold temps in our area. Very little humidity here.

putttn wrote:Forrest did tell me to call them back if the WD40 doesn't work. Not sure what you're referring to JPG? I have a lot of "iron" in my garage that's not affected by the cold temps in our area. Very little humidity here.

I'm not sure what JPGs point is either but I doubt that the "cold iron" in your shop is the same as those blades.

The blades are smooth and apparently held together by the forces created when the anti-rust stuff was squeezed between the two blades. Those blades were probably difficult to pull apart when they were brand new (first in your shop). Now, a year later, that bond between the two (hopefully it is not rust) is even more stable.

Put two pieces of wet window glass together and slide them around (evacuate the air). Now try to pull them apart. I think your blades are doing something similar.

I'd try a couple razor blades together acting as wedges. Maybe a box cutter blade (more of a wedge).

i did try the razor blades and box cutters but there's not the slightest opening anywhere. i'll be trying the WD40 today

I have thought about this and have a different idea. Let's get away from the sharp carbide tips and work in the area of the bore. I assume these are 5/8" bore (not redrilled for Shopsmith).

The teeth align so that the teeth of one blade are in the spaces between the teeth in the other blade. You can't pull the blades apart but maybe you can slide them apart (too a limited degree). With a 5/8" shaft (drill bit), insert it into the bore and attempt to slide the blades against one another. You need to break the "surface bond" between the two blades.

dusty wrote:I have thought about this and have a different idea. Let's get away from the sharp carbide tips and work in the area of the bore. I assume these are 5/8" bore (not redrilled for Shopsmith).

The teeth align so that the teeth of one blade are in the spaces between the teeth in the other blade. You can't pull the blades apart but maybe you can slide them apart (too a limited degree). With a 5/8" shaft (drill bit), insert it into the bore and attempt to slide the blades against one another. You need to break the "surface bond" between the two blades.

Unplug Shopsmith. Remove table insert. Mount blade on Shopsmith dado arborbut do not over tighten and mount arbor to Shopsmith main spindle. Place 2x4 scrap on table. Adjust so tooth of one blade is in contact with 2x4. Apply gentle forward/downward pressure using Shopsmith arbor wrench.

beeg wrote:I'd say NO HAMMERS,HIGH HEAT and PRYING. Place it in a shallow pan and soak it overnight in mineral sprites or wd40. Then the next day, try to slide them apart using the arbor holes.

These blades are designed to be rotated around an axle (arbor) at high speed and smashed into a piece of hard wood for crying out loud! And since they aren't designed exclusively for Shopsmith, they must be capable of taking the force/torque exerted by multi-horsepower cabinet saws!

There is no amount of force a human being could manually apply, even using the arbor wrench for leverage, to turn the spindle while a tooth of the blade is held against a soft 2x4 that could possible damage the blade. You might not be able to unfreeze the two blades this way but the threat of damage is zero.