Shopsmith Forums

thanks all
I wasn't planning on buy bits outside my shop, so reilble bits are out.

I have stright bits and forstners bit.

I'll give it a go soon.

A Fostner bit will work for hogging out the main part, just dont go as deep, do to the spur point, you want the router straight bit to clean up and leave a nice flat area, and again use your core box for a nice curved perimeter.

There is always the option of sandpaper and a jug of patience.

Take another gander at Ed's bits!

They are flat on the bottom.

They will create a cove at the periphery, but a flat cut every where else inside that.

One bit. One depth setting.

No resultant ridges.

One bit. One depth setting.
Only with the right set up.
"
I wasn't planning on buy bits outside my shop, so reilble bits are out."
JPG.

ERLover wrote:One bit. One depth setting.
Only with the right set up.
"
I wasn't planning on buy bits outside my shop, so reilble bits are out."
JPG.

Guess what!

Farley quote not seen prior to other quotes.

The need for a 'right' setup is always a given but this task only requires One setup with Ed's bit. That was the point!

I Would not use forstner bits for this. Flat bottom router bit. 3/4" or larger preferred.

But Farly will need to use what he already has.

It might be possible to fashion a sleeve to slip over the guide bushing to increase it's size. Need tight tolerances.

BTW the shot of the bit in the too small bushing is unlikely to work. By the time the bit is mounted in the router to correct depth it will most likely be against the bushing. The bit should always be smaller then the guide bushing and fit inside the bushing. Trying to make this work could lead to some bad things happening.

So before abandoning all hope you could make a sub base with a built in bushing. A good deal of care would need to be taken but it could be done. Short of that you will need to resort to free handing the outline then as has been mentioned using a plunge bit to remove the remaining material. Then expect a good deal of sanding to get things smooth and flat and looking good.

I've got the bits because I have have done projects before I got them and they turn out not to be router projects but sanding projects and I hate sanding.

Well that is about it for me on this thread.

Ed

I would listen to the wisdom of Reible, from my experience he is absolutely right on.

I totaly believe reible has the best answer, but I wanted to work on this scrap with the idea of being a snow day and need to work with what one has on hand.

I didn't use the core/round bit, as I didn't like the results in scrap wood.

Resorted to forstner bit and stright bit free hand.

That poor walnut tree!