Shopsmith Forums

His response will be interesting!

Fwiw Nick messed up! The ends need to be done independent of the middle otherwise a teeter totter results and thee chases one's tail!. The middle height screw is adjusted after the ends are done.

I do not recommend tapping them down. Adjust upwards only! Same thing with the jointer.

Snow is tapering off(for the time being). Did not get a foot.

I noticed that also, I would have done the ends and then the middle, but as I state earlier, there should be an easier, better way with a jig like on my Ryobi lunch box.

JPG good news on the storm, just hope your power lines stay intact.
Ya the Old Man is on IST time zone, so in bed most likely, but him and I have coffee about the same time tomorrow if I dont lazy my butt in bed.
I am going with a buddy of mine tomorrow pm to see Hillery's FU, 13 Hours, he is a Lib but with open eyes, a Bernie man, thank God.

ERLover wrote:John, I saw him on the video using that jig, I think crude at best.
I bought the conical disk this fall when on sale, a great item when you need it.
Nephew has the one sharping jig, I know for chisels, I am not sure if itwill work on 12in planer blades, maybe SS has a couple different ones.

To each his own but, trust me it works just fine. There is absolutely no need to spend a bunch of money on a fancy blade setting jig.

Do you know the recommended way to set the jointer blades? You would probably call it crude too. You take a 6" steel ruler, set it on edge on the out feed table so it overhangs the cutter head and rotate the cutter head by hand. The blade should just kiss the ruler and move it back about 1/16". Do that at each end of each blade and as long as the ruler moves the same amount each time you are good. It works perfectly and again no fancy expensive jig to buy.

jsburger wrote:

ERLover wrote:John, I saw him on the video using that jig, I think crude at best.
I bought the conical disk this fall when on sale, a great item when you need it.
Nephew has the one sharping jig, I know for chisels, I am not sure if itwill work on 12in planer blades, maybe SS has a couple different ones.

To each his own but, trust me it works just fine. There is absolutely no need to spend a bunch of money on a fancy blade setting jig.

Do you know the recommended way to set the jointer blades? You would probably call it crude too. You take a 6" steel ruler, set it on edge on the out feed table so it overhangs the cutter head and rotate the cutter head by hand. The blade should just kiss the ruler and move it back about 1/16". Do that at each end of each blade and as long as the ruler moves the same amount each time you are good. It works perfectly and again no fancy expensive jig to buy.

This +10.

Nothing crude, or even undesirable about the metal jig. It just works well. I have done it both with a dial indicator and with the jig. I prefer the jig.

JMHO

ERLover wrote:I noticed that also, I would have done the ends and then the middle, but as I state earlier, there should be an easier, better way with a jig like on my Ryobi lunch box.

There is nothing hard about it. The jig is just a measuring instrument. The actual adjustment procedure for the baldes is the same no matter what measuring method (jig) you use. Since you have never used it how do you know it is hard or that something else would be better. It is an absolute piece of cake to use and the results are just fine.

I was not condoning an expensive jig, I was just surprised someone has not come up with a home made one for the planer.
Now on the jointer, I used to use 2 torpedo levels, then I got a piece of glass and put a couple layers of tape on it parallel to the blades and 2 rare magnets on the top, to pull the blades up to the tape, works great, but cant see that for the planer yet.
I will take it on as a personal challenge, planer blade setting jig, and something to do here at moms. Yes I will share it and ask for input here during that process if needed.

JPG wrote:His response will be interesting!

Fwiw Nick messed up! The ends need to be done independent of the middle otherwise a teeter totter results and thee chases one's tail!. The middle height screw is adjusted after the ends are done.

I do not recommend tapping them down. Adjust upwards only! Same thing with the jointer.

Snow is tapering off(for the time being). Did not get a foot.

I agree. I find that a lot of times you don't even need to adjust the leveling screws. Particularly if the blades just need a touch up and you didn't have to remove a lot of material to remove a nick. In any case removing material makes the blades narrower so will always require the leveling screws to be adjusted upwards.

ERLover wrote:I was not condoning an expensive jig, I was just surprised someone has not come up with a home made one for the planer.
Now on the jointer, I used to use 2 torpedo levels, then I got a piece of glass and put a couple layers of tape on it parallel to the blades and 2 rare magnets on the top, to pull the blades up to the tape, works great, but cant see that for the planer yet.
I will take it on as a personal challenge, planer blade setting jig, and something to do here at moms. Yes I will share it and ask for input here during that process if needed.

That is probably because there is no need for a home made jig. Why reinvent the wheel when SS already supplies a perfectly usable and accurate jig with the planer. Even if you buy a used planer and didn't get the jig the cost of one from the MS is minimal. You probably can't make one for the cost of the OEM jig.

Those of thee that find the newer version(marked flat edge) adequate would really like the older curved edge version. No need to block the drum shaft at all. You rotate the shaft as you adjust the height. When it drags you stop.