Shopsmith Forums

jsburger wrote:Yes. There are two different styles but either one will work. They come up on eBay quite frequently.

Thanks John I'll check.

Also looking for information on replacing the headstock bearings. I think mine will need replacing sooner rather than later. Turning the pulley by hand I feel a slight bumpiness, but no play or anything like that. I am considering eventually sending the headstock off to Skip Campbell and letting him do it or is it not so hard to do at home?

rjent wrote:I go get my newest from San Antonio on Monday (travel). I will post pics when I get her back. Nice addition!

Thanks Dick. I love a road trip with a purpose!

tomsalwasser wrote:

jsburger wrote:Yes. There are two different styles but either one will work. They come up on eBay quite frequently.

Thanks John I'll check.

Also looking for information on replacing the headstock bearings. I think mine will need replacing sooner rather than later. Turning the pulley by hand I feel a slight bumpiness, but no play or anything like that. I am considering eventually sending the headstock off to Skip Campbell and letting him do it or is it not so hard to do at home?

Check out Skip's video on replacing quill bearings.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Check out Skip's video on replacing quill bearings. [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MbGbefGFDQ[/youtube]

Thanks Dennis! I believe there are bearings in the headstock too, and I haven't found much out there on replacing them.

tomsalwasser wrote:I believe there are bearings in the headstock too, and I haven't found much out there on replacing them.

There isn't a lot to them. The drive sleeve assembly is made up of the sleeve (hollow shaft, splines on the inside), two bearings, and a spacer.
The bearings are a press fit on the sleeve and a slip fit in the housing.
The assembly is held in the headstock by a set screw(on the back side of the headstock) that engages the spacer. (on mine there was also some tar like sealer but I don't know if that was stock)
This post by mickyd shows the part ER bearings - removal and part number
It is part of his restoration thread which is well worth reading. Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10
10ER headstocks are very easy to work on, You should get a Bearing Separator and Puller Set if you don't have one.
.

ChrisNeilan wrote:My grinder is a slow speed grinder with CbN wheels. The best setup I've ever used for lathe tools.

Chris I'm just putting together my own slow speed grinder with the help of Bill Mayo and a 1750 rpm motor that came along with my 10E. I was just looking at grinding wheels and the CbN looks amazing. It's pricey, I think I'll get a less expensive one at first to see how my rig works out, then upgrade the wheel later. What grinding wheel would you use if you couldn't use the CbN?

rpd wrote:This post by mickyd shows the part ER bearings - removal and part number It is part of his restoration thread which is well worth reading. Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10 10ER headstocks are very easy to work on, You should get a Bearing Separator and Puller Set if you don't have one. .

Much thanks Ron!

tomsalwasser wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:My grinder is a slow speed grinder with CbN wheels. The best setup I've ever used for lathe tools.

Chris I'm just putting together my own slow speed grinder with the help of Bill Mayo and a 1750 rpm motor that came along with my 10E. I was just looking at grinding wheels and the CbN looks amazing. It's pricey, I think I'll get a less expensive one at first to see how my rig works out, then upgrade the wheel later. What grinding wheel would you use if you couldn't use the CbN?

Photo Jan 25, 3 54 42 PM.jpg

I use the CbN wheels from d-Way tools. They are pricey, but they should outlast me, and they run true with no vibration. They also require no dressing or guards. If I were to go back to a composite wheel, I would use a Norton wheel, probably a white one, somewhere around the 180 grit. Whichever wheel you get, watch the arbor size. You might need an adaptor to fit if. Avoid the cheap plastic ones, they never balance well.

ChrisNeilan wrote:I use the CbN wheels from d-Way tools.

Chris, the d-way web sight is interesting. Do you use your wolverine and CbN wheels for bench chisels, plane irons, knives and scissors too?

Tom, That is a sweet find! Finding a 10E in that condition is becoming rare around my parts... Yes, The 10E and ER pulley guard will work on either machine.

Extend your quill far enough so the spindle is free of the drive sleeve and see if the drive sleeve has the roughness. If the drive sleeve spins smoothly, It's the spindle bearings and these are very simple to replace.

As has been stated, The bench is a little short to realize the full capacity of the machine but hey, If it works for you, Let it be...

Although, I'm not too sure about the color...

Try to keep the ole gal as she was built. Wish I could find one in that good of shape.

Mike