Shopsmith Forums

Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

ChrisNeilan wrote:Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

This blade points, visibly, to the right when the band saw is stopped. It isn't a question of dull.

algale wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

This blade points, visibly, to the right when the band saw is stopped. It isn't a question of dull.

That like 'twist'?

Yes, it is twist.

Are ya following my 'drift'?

JPG wrote:Are ya following my 'drift'?

Maybe. You previously said not enough cant. I've been through that when I was trying to resolve this. I don't remember the measurement, but I recall it was good. Also, the blade rides the appropriate amount from the back of the upper wheel.

algale wrote:

JPG wrote:Are ya following my 'drift'?

Maybe. You previously said not enough cant. I've been through that when I was trying to resolve this. I don't remember the measurement, but I recall it was good. Also, the blade rides the appropriate amount from the back of the upper wheel.

Until this week I also would have considered that an adequate vindication of cant also. What I do not know is how little a cant(or tire wear) deviation will result in that twist.

Since you are operating that resaw blade at higher tension, it is plausible that as you used it the angle gradually changed and the drift went with it.

Since you have a blade that consistently twists, see what increasing the cant does(while running??? ).

algale wrote:

jsburger wrote:

Beave2012 wrote:I will say, I would almost prefer the old table currently because my 5/8 resaw blade has a hefty drift that maxes out the fence adjustment, but there is less limit to the fence angle with the miter gauge option.

Sounds to me it is time for a new resaw blade.

I have had a similar issue with this blade. In fact several of us have had that issue with this blade. The blade is plenty sharp. Once adjusted for lead, it cuts beautifully. It just wants to point off to the right (from operator's vantage point). I suspect a manufacturing issue.

Agreed, it's a fairly new blade, less than a few dozen cuts, but the drift expanded a lot. Sharp as can be, but drifts a lot.

ChrisNeilan wrote:Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

I couldn't agree more Chris.

algale wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

This blade points, visibly, to the right when the band saw is stopped. It isn't a question of dull.

What kind of guides? Guides adjusted correctly? Guides worn? Whose blade? Tension proper? Still points the same way all the way around when rotated by hand? Lay the blade on a flat surface. Does it appear to be perpendicular with the surface all the way around?

Not disagreeing with you just some questions.