Shopsmith Forums

Another thing that will help although not essential is a set of Carter roller guides to replace the SS guides. I have had a set since Carter first offered them years ago and I love them. Since they are ball bearings the clearance can be much less with no fear of heating the blade due to friction. I set mine so the bearings turn with the saw running but if I touch the bearing it will stop. That seems to be the perfect setting.

I also have installed the double backup bearing mod. Since the back of the blade runs in the groove between the bearings it can not move sideways.

jsburger wrote:Another thing that will help although not essential is a set of Carter roller guides to replace the SS guides. I have had a set since Carter first offered them years ago and I love them. Since they are ball bearings the clearance can be much less with no fear of heating the blade due to friction. I set mine so the bearings turn with the saw running but if I touch the bearing it will stop. That seems to be the perfect setting.

I also have installed the double backup bearing mod. Since the back of the blade runs in the groove between the bearings it can not move sideways.

Both of those mods are things I will consider installing if I fail to get consistent results. Hate to do it because of the $$$. I do have two bandsaws so I could set this one up strictly for straight cutting and resawing and use the other to do curvy work.

algale wrote:

jsburger wrote:Another thing that will help although not essential is a set of Carter roller guides to replace the SS guides. I have had a set since Carter first offered them years ago and I love them. Since they are ball bearings the clearance can be much less with no fear of heating the blade due to friction. I set mine so the bearings turn with the saw running but if I touch the bearing it will stop. That seems to be the perfect setting.

I also have installed the double backup bearing mod. Since the back of the blade runs in the groove between the bearings it can not move sideways.

Both of those mods are things I will consider installing if I fail to get consistent results. Hate to do it because of the $$$. I do have two bandsaws so I could set this one up strictly for straight cutting and resawing and use the other to do curvy work.

Yes the Carter guides are a bit pricey. Just remember you will only have to do it once.

As for the double backup bearings that is pretty cheap. You can go with Bill Mayo. Not sure his price but there is a set on eBay right now at 25.95 after one bid. The other option is the prints provided by LDH here. That was back in 08 or 09. That is what I did. Just a bunch of spacers from McMaster-Carr and bolts and 6 bearings. I think you should be able to do it for under $25. I think I have enough of all the spacers since they came 6 to a pack I think. I will just send you the spacers if you want. I can email you LDH's prints if need be but they are on here somewhere I am sure.

Just an update on my resawing job. I got tied up this weekend with my youngest grandsons and their cardboard sled races so I could not do anything. I went to Menards and got an Olsen 1/2 4 tooth blade. Today I tried it out and then a problem came up. Mytable was not sq to the blade so I fixed that and then tried it. I will have to say I was surprized at how good it turned out. I needed some 1/8 inch thick pieces cut so I just split a 3/4 piece and will plane the rest. On my blade guard it has play front to back and sideways is there an adjustment for this/ I also saw that when I first posted on here I got a double post somehow sorry for any confusion it may have cause. I want to thank all for the help you gave me onn my questions.My project is turkey box calls for all my grand kids. Ivan

Sawmill
Look on the left side of the blade guide post and there should be a screw that can be adjusted. In my manual it is part 65.
http://www.shopsmith.com/service/bandsa ... iagram.htm

Bill V

sawmill wrote:Just an update on my resawing job. I got tied up this weekend with my youngest grandsons and their cardboard sled races so I could not do anything. I went to Menards and got an Olsen 1/2 4 tooth blade. Today I tried it out and then a problem came up. Mytable was not sq to the blade so I fixed that and then tried it. I will have to say I was surprized at how good it turned out. I needed some 1/8 inch thick pieces cut so I just split a 3/4 piece and will plane the rest. On my blade guard it has play front to back and sideways is there an adjustment for this/ I also saw that when I first posted on here I got a double post somehow sorry for any confusion it may have cause. I want to thank all for the help you gave me onn my questions.My project is turkey box calls for all my grand kids. Ivan

Yes and maybe.

Yes as to front to back play. Look for a headless, slotted screw on the casting that arm goes through. Adjustment is counter-intuitive. Clockwise increase front to back play; counterclockwise decreases it.

Maybe as to side to side play. Look for a Nylon "bolt" on the side of the same casting. Early band saws lack this but it can be added by drilling and tapping a hole.

Saw Mill maybe doing a search
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/de ... px?id=3652

Left side pic click on PDF file to open, I think it is in there

ERLover wrote:Saw Mill maybe doing a search
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/de ... px?id=3652

Left side pic click on PDF file to open, I think it is in there

Shopmaster does not equal Shopsmith.

Just caught it to John, Sawmill forget that. Ohps

That is great on the adjustment. I saw the screw to adjust in and out play but I don't have the nylon bolt yet but it will have tomorrow as soon as I get to the hardware