Shopsmith Forums

kurtzz3 wrote:I'm having a difficult time uploading a photo, so I'll add a link to the Home Depot equivalent.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Belkin-10-Ou ... /100663223

It is only 15 Amp. Those surge protector strips are not designed to run motors. That is a bit lite for the SS. You need 20 Amp. As a surge protector it is probably fast acting so will trip immediately on an over current/voltage condition that the SS will provide. Ditch the power strip and try plugged into an outlet directly.

"Product Weight (oz.) 4.04 oz"
Copied from the Home D link above.

I REALLY hope that weight is WRONG!

Thing only weighs 1/4 pound?
Sorry, there is NOTHING heavy duty, if
that is correct.

My cheap (I plug wall warts into it) power
strip weighs more than a pound, maybe 2.
And, it has a plastic case.

steve

The coils are nice and shiny without any burns and there is no burnt resin smell (I'm familiar with that odor).

I've shopvac'd out lots of sawdust.

However, there is one thing that confuses me. It has to do with the "start switch" which I guess is controlled by a centrifugal mechanism. If I understand correctly, in the normal off (spring relaxed) state, this switch should be closed. I am seeing this switch open.

There are two white pads that run along the outer surface of a black wheel that is controlled by the centrifuge. The white pads control the position of the switch contacts. This wheel can move outward or inward along the shaft of the armature.

When running, is this wheel pulled inward toward the coils, or pushed outward?

It looks to me like the wheel pulls inward, but that would close the contacts when the motor is turning.

If the wheel is pushed outward, then that would mean two of the contacts on the switch are bent far out of place.

If it stopped 'starting' suddenly, I doubt bent contact arms are the cause.

As for what direction, a close look should reveal that.

A pix would help.

I got the motor running! My confusion was that I thought the contacts that are made and broken when the motor turns were the parts I have labeled "A" in the picture.

I didn't realize that the contacts were actually hidden underneath the little rubber boot marked "B".

Anyway, I think the real culprit was a build up of grime on the armature shaft that was preventing the black plate that "A" rides against to smoothly move back and forth.

I cleaned that all up and replaced the wires that had aged and cracked insulation. You can see them also in the picture. I also made sure everything else was dust free and lubed.

Motor purrs like its new and no more popped fuses. I suspect it will need new bearings in awhile so I will have to shop around for a bearing puller.

Thanks all for the help!

WHEW!

All's well that ends well!!!

billmayo wrote:I have had to replace the motor (internal & external) wiring on every GE 1 1/8 HP motor (dozens) that I disassemblied. The insulation breaks down and can short internally. Yes there are start winding points that you can clean while you have the motor disassembled. You should replace the bearings at this time too. I recommend sealed bearings for these motors.

Bill, do you have any advice or instructions for replacing these wires? I've got a 1 1/8 HP motor with the same wiring issue, wires have deteriorated and need replacing. I'm assuming they are bad all the way to where they connect on the coil.

silenthope wrote:

billmayo wrote:I have had to replace the motor (internal & external) wiring on every GE 1 1/8 HP motor (dozens) that I disassemblied. The insulation breaks down and can short internally. Yes there are start winding points that you can clean while you have the motor disassembled. You should replace the bearings at this time too. I recommend sealed bearings for these motors.

Bill, do you have any advice or instructions for replacing these wires? I've got a 1 1/8 HP motor with the same wiring issue, wires have deteriorated and need replacing. I'm assuming they are bad all the way to where they connect on the coil.

Yes, I leave about 1" of wire from the winding connections. I solder new wires to the 1" long wires. I use shirk wrap tubing over this soldered connection. Do not use electrical tape, liquid tape is OK. I believe the wires to the capacitor and start switch might be OK but should be checked by twisting on the wire insulation. You do not need to cut any of the coil wrappings or remove the coverings that connect the wires into the winding wires.

The topic of this thread matches my situation almost exactly, so rather than start a new thread, decided to just ask my questions here.

I took my 1980's vintage motor apart to blow out accumulated saw dust and now it won't start. I removed the floating sheave as well, which I normally don't do, to give it a thorough cleaning from both ends. As it came apart, the armature started slipping out before I was ready, and I wonder if that has done some damage to the centrifugal switch.

In the off or stopped position, the contacts are closed, but not tightly. A piece of regular 20 lb. bond paper slides easily between the contacts. Should I just bend the arms for a tighter contact? The black plastic spring loaded mechanism of the switch slides freely and smoothly.

When I try to start, the shaft tries to move slightly and then returns to it's original position. I do not leave switch on long enough for it to pop a breaker. Tried running motor with it removed from the SS and same results. Spade lugs on switch were a little loose so I center-punched the rivets that hold on the lugs for tighter connection.

You might try using an ohm meter to check continuity across the contacts. I took some 800 grit paper and burnished the contacts very lightly.

Another thing I did that may have been a contributing factor to my final success was the pulley on the other end of the armature. I notice while reassembling that it seemed to bind slightly on the armature shaft.

I knocked out the key and cleaned and scraped any build up of saw dust so that the pulley shims rode up and own the armature shaft without ANY binding at all.

My theory is that if that pulley binds at startup, then the belt will catch and motor doesn't get a chance to come up to speed. This causes a condition known as "back EMF" which would pop my fuse.