masonsailor2 wrote:The best way to get a perfect edge for that kind of cut is a skil saw believe it or not. Get a new finish cut blade for your skil saw and then make a cut off shoe. It will only take a few minutes to make and the cut will be perfect. I use a piece of 1/4 ply for the base and 1/2" for the guide. But you can pretty much use anything. Since the shoe will have a nice clean edge it's easy to put it right on the line, clamp it and cut it off.
Paul
Thanks. Sounds workable. I take it you build the 1/2 ply as a fence on top of a wide piece of 1/4 base and then make your first cut at 45 to cut the line of the base, which you then line up with the cut line.
Sounds like a kind of homemade Festool. I'll have to hide this response from the wife as I am angling for the Festool!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
I would start this project by clarifying why 45° bevels. A good dado or rabbet can provide just as clean an edge.
However, this is not an impossible task on the Shopsmith. First I would have to verify the maximum length off the end of the Shopsmith. I can't go to the shop to verify but I think it is longer than you state.
Nonetheless, that length can be extended by elevating the Shopsmith and letting the end of the work piece hang off in free space. I did something similar though not near as critical as would be furniture by setting up in the pickup truck bed.
Don't rty this with out clamps. That work piece must not be allowed to skew while the end is being cut/sanded.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Table tilted 45(ends up horizontal), way tubes tilted 45, work piece horizontal.
Sand to dimension.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I think my approach would be to get the wife to rethink her idea. The skill saw idea will work but the corners, that be 4 of them will have to be the right angles, think of making that large a picture frame.... then add the width of the material, 16" I think you said. That gets to be a pretty tough joint to get right.
Since I think you are going with plywood then I would cut the trim (to cover the end grain) at the 45 degree joint and then cut a joint like a double rabbet with just the last layer of the plywood covering the joint. Still tricky but I think a better way to go for strength and looks.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
reible wrote:I think my approach would be to get the wife to rethink her idea. The skill saw idea will work but the corners, that be 4 of them will have to be the right angles, think of making that large a picture frame.... then add the width of the material, 16" I think you said. That gets to be a pretty tough joint to get right.
Since I think you are going with plywood then I would cut the trim (to cover the end grain) at the 45 degree joint and then cut a joint like a double rabbet with just the last layer of the plywood covering the joint. Still tricky but I think a better way to go for strength and looks.
Ed
Believe me, I agree! I've told her that it will be extremely difficult nigh-on impossible to get good looking miter joints on something this size. It may be I have to prove to her I can't do it before she let's me go with another joint.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
JPG wrote:You need a half stop on the way tube raising.
Table tilted 45(ends up horizontal), way tubes tilted 45, work piece horizontal.
Sand to dimension.
I assume from the roll eyes you are being sarcastic, but I actually thought about doing just that. It seems like it might be slightly hazardous.
The reason for the tongue in cheek!
A bit trickey, but single ply butt joint(or a variation) with a miter at the front face only(lotta hand shaping).
I think the strength will be a greater problem.
You have not specified the material but a mitered plywood joint does not make sense.
How thick???
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I'll do a sketch of the joint of which I speak a little later tonight and post so you can see what it looks like. I think you will like it and so will she.......... well maybe anyway.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Cut a narrow strip off each front edge, miter them and glue back on.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
