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Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:32 pm
by lilgodwin
Just changed the blade twice. The other 5/8", same as the first, seems to make the same sound with little change. The 1/4" blade sounds better for sure. Makes a different, less bothersome sound. Again just curious if that's expected.
Here's a video of the sound/vibration. Its a bit more clear when I move the phone toward the top. Otherwise, I realize it sounds faint.
https://youtu.be/WFTo4JarMxs
Normal?
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:55 pm
by ChrisNeilan
That actually is pretty quite for the bandsaw!
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 9:36 pm
by JPG
lilgodwin wrote:Just changed the blade twice. The other 5/8", same as the first, seems to make the same sound with little change. The 1/4" blade sounds better for sure. Makes a different, less bothersome sound. Again just curious if that's expected.
Here's a video of the sound/vibration. Its a bit more clear when I move the phone toward the top. Otherwise, I realize it sounds faint.
https://youtu.be/WFTo4JarMxs
Normal?
I assume that is with the blade guides positioned so they do not touch the blade, and the upper backup bearing also clearing the back of the blade as mentioned earlier in this thread.
So assuming the blade contributes to the tick, that leaves the upper and lower guide bearings and the back edge of the blade. The upper guide bearing if a dual bearing could possibly be a culprit if the blade is shifting in/out of the center groove. A kink could cause that.
Let us not overlook the possibility that a bearing itself is 'ticking'.
That leaves us with the back of the blade itself. The weld is a likely location.
As has already been stated, that is pretty quiet for this beast.
New noises will likely add their voice when guides etc. are positioned at normal operation positions.
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:08 pm
by oldiron
After listening to the video, Mine sounds the exact same way but without the ticking, sewing machine sound.
Have you spun the bearings by hand with no blade installed? If you whip them quickly with your fingers(no blade in place), You will be able to hear a bearing which would need replacing.
It sure sounds like a bearing which is starting to run dry.
Mike
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:29 pm
by lilgodwin
I just replaced all the tracking/guide bearings.
Without a blade, whipping the wheels around produces almost no sound at all. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I think it's primarily the back of the blade(s), where the weld is passing he bearings.
The bearings are all new, but I'll be sure to go back through them and make sure they're not moving at all, aside from spinning freely.
As I stated: the blade is touching the auto tracking bearings and the lower guide bearings, but NOT the upper guide bearing. I believe the upper is suppose to be set just off the blade, and it's roughtly 1/8" away. 2 of the 3 blades are brand new. I literally pulled them out of the packaging to compare to the one I'm currently using. The current blade is slight surface rust. Don't know if I should toss it because of that.
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:58 pm
by wa2crk
The blade back (spine) is too far from the upper backup bearing. (just my opinion) Should be behind the bearing by about the thickness of a business card. Too much clearance causes the blade to try to flex front to back which puts excessive strain on the weld.
Additionally, having to move the blade that far when pressure is applied would probably cause more than normal pressure on the tracking and the lower guide bearings.
If you can feel roughness on the spine of the blade in the area of the weld the roughness can be removed with a fine file.
Some manufacturers can put a very fine weld on their blades but low cost blades will sometimes have less than perfect welds
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 11:26 pm
by reible
On your video, what speed are you running at? And are you on a shopsmith for the power?
The noise seems to be blade related, more then likely a weld or twist/kink. The vibration is another thing, that seems excessive.
I have three posted video to look and listen to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w35qkOG1eZE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUWJRIuPqKo
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fblBc33CXqI
Ed
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 11:43 pm
by lilgodwin
I actually ran across your videos, at least I deduced it was yours at the time. The second video produces a very similar sound (if not spot on), though one of my blades causes a tick as well it seems.
It seems a lot of my sounds are coming from the weld. I tried to lightly sand the back a bit to smooth it out, but I guess I need to hit it a bit more.
And I'll be sure to make sure the upper bearing is much closer to the blade. Though, I haven't really run anything through it, so this is just a preliminary issue.
Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:36 am
by JPG
wa2crk wrote:The blade back (spine) is too far from the upper backup bearing. (just my opinion) Should be behind the bearing by about the thickness of a business card. Too much clearance causes the blade to try to flex front to back which puts excessive strain on the weld.
Additionally, having to move the blade that far when pressure is applied would probably cause more than normal pressure on the tracking and the lower guide bearings.
If you can feel roughness on the spine of the blade in the area of the weld the roughness can be removed with a fine file.
Some manufacturers can put a very fine weld on their blades but low cost blades will sometimes have less than perfect welds
He is trying to identify noise source(s). He is NOT trying to cut anything.

Re: Older/Previous Model Bandsaw Diagram?
Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 1:52 am
by ERLover
When I set BS blocks on my SS or Delta, they are about a 1/16 of an inch back of the blade gullet to give room for cutting tension, and side wise only about a 1/32 inch at most clearance from the side of the blade. You know they are there to keep the blade from twisting and they are the sacrificial lamb.