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I suspect that those "rivets" are actually round-head drive screws.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I suspect that those "rivets" are actually round-head drive screws.

Me too. That means they are 'hard'.

JPG wrote:

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I suspect that those "rivets" are actually round-head drive screws.

Me too. That means they are 'hard'.

Yup. If I had to get one out, I'd try drilling a small hole through the back side of casting, on axis with the drive screw, and hope that there was enough air gap underneath the drive screw to drill all the way through the casting. If so, then drive it out with a small punch.

Left handed drill bits could help those rivets/screws come out IF someone really wanted to take them out.

I agree that it is likely best not to take them out and they are driven in.

If I were to do this however, I would think that enlarging the holes just a bit and adding Helicoil inserts, with stainless steel screws and thread locking compound would be in order.

Can you imagine one or more of the screws coming out in operation down the line?

The expense of doing it may not be justifiable to most folks, but I totally get the experience value in doing something not done before.... I think we all do to a great extent.

I have gone down the Reuben Garrett Lucius "Rube" Goldberg school of cartoon engineering many times myself.

Happily, no one was there to document my attempts and I never made it into a cartoon that I know of.... at least yet....

Everett

JPG wrote:

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I suspect that those "rivets" are actually round-head drive screws.

Me too. That means they are 'hard'.

Yup and they are HARD. That is what holds the ID plate on the 10ER. Since the hole in the 10ER head stock casting is a through hole I ground off the head and drove the shank through with a pin punch. I bought the exact replacement from McMaster-Carr.