Shopsmith Forums

Woodslicer fan here. I have one on my SS band saw and also on my 17” Grizzly and love them both.
Paul

It depends on how you are resawing them. The wood is so old and dense that splitting it into 2x6 is impossible. Ergo, use a resawblade to do the job.

got it?

masonsailor2 wrote:Woodslicer fan here. I have one on my SS band saw and also on my 17” Grizzly and love them both.
Paul

I have a Woodslicer here also for my SS band saw. I also have a Timberwolf and to be honest I can't tell the difference. However the Timberwolf is cheaper if you buy direct. I have all Timberwolf blades on my 14" Powermatic. 3/4" for resawing.

Has anyone ever tried one of the carbide tipped blades. I have not and have always wondered if they were worth the bucks.
Paul

db5 wrote:It depends on how you are resawing them. The wood is so old and dense that splitting it into 2x6 is impossible. Ergo, use a resawblade to do the job.

got it?

Aha ... you are trying to rip the boards in half. Is your headstock bogging down when you try the cut? If so, you might try cranking down the blade speed. If you cut the blade RPM in half, for example, you will double the available cutting torque. The Reeve’s drive inside your headstock is a continuously-variable-transmission, and it enables you to tailor the spindle speed/torque capabilities to your needs.

Of course, if you cut the blade RPM in half, you’ll also need to cut your feed rate in half, to keep the same chip load. But feed rate aside, you should now have as much heavy-ripping capability as a 2 hp machine. Or even more, depending on how much you change the drive ratio.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:

db5 wrote:It depends on how you are resawing them. The wood is so old and dense that splitting it into 2x6 is impossible. Ergo, use a resawblade to do the job.

got it?

Aha ... you are trying to rip the boards in half. Is your headstock bogging down when you try the cut? If so, you might try cranking down the blade speed. If you cut the blade RPM in half, for example, you will double the available cutting torque. The Reeve’s drive inside your headstock is a continuously-variable-transmission, and it enables you to tailor the spindle speed/torque capabilities to your needs.

Of course, if you cut the blade RPM in half, you’ll also need to cut your feed rate in half, to keep the same chip load. But feed rate aside, you should now have as much heavy-ripping capability as a 2 hp machine. Or even more, depending on how much you change the drive ratio.

I thank you; my mother thanks you and the people of the great State of Texas thank you.

Does that mean that it worked?

masonsailor2 wrote:Has anyone ever tried one of the carbide tipped blades. I have not and have always wondered if they were worth the bucks.
Paul

Hi Paul.
A friend has a 16” Jet and was given some large chunks of rock maple with the idea of an entire chest of drawers, fronts to be bookend matched. He did buy the carbide tipped that Timberwolf (I think ) recommended at over $140. It did great but afterwards he wondered if just buying 2 or so bimetal blades would have done just as well for less money and less waste (slightly narrower kerf than the carbide tipped)
The results from the carbide are awesome but I’m not sure I’d invest unless I had an ongoing large scale project.
He did the follow up surface prep with the need for very little hand planing. The carbide left very few teeth marks. He also adjusted his feed rate and blade tension (all on recommendation from the blade supplier and a couple forums).
He would tell you the results and reduced prep offset the cost and maybe it did. But I think he was more or less trying to justify the expense.
When I was doing a great deal of intricate work using a 1/8” blade I did consider buying a carbide but then found a reliable source for narrow steel blades that don’t break as often so when I get back to it, I’ll stick with the old tried and true.

Hope that gives some help.

Be well,
Ben