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Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 6:18 pm
by TooTall
John,
Stupid "old" me . . . once I put my stronger glasses on I could see the metal coil spring sticking out where it is hooked to the aluminum case. Yesterday I thought it was a plastic release button.
Thankfully, the spring is intact.
Here's a photo.
Forget that! I've shrunk photos till I'm blue in the face and they are still too big and won't post.
Anyway, it looks to be a perfect spring. Just need to reconnect and reload it. Can one just slip it over the nub and wind it up, slip the cover over the notch and tighten the washer and set screw collar?
Any tips on how to reload the spring?
How about I connect the spring, while the quill is out . . . use the shaft handle to wind the spring up semi-tight and then feed the quill back in till it meshes with the shaft gear?
Thanks much,
Terry
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 7:10 pm
by jsburger
TooTall wrote:John,
Stupid "old" me . . . once I put my stronger glasses on I could see the metal coil spring sticking out where it is hooked to the aluminum case. Yesterday I thought it was a plastic release button.
Thankfully, the spring is intact.
Here's a photo.
Forget that! I've shrunk photos till I'm blue in the face and they are still too big and won't post.
Anyway, it looks to be a perfect spring. Just need to reconnect and reload it. Can one just slip it over the nub and wind it up, slip the cover over the notch and tighten the washer and set screw collar?
Any tips on how to reload the spring?
Or is the procedure to remove the quill like you said, and use the handle to wind the spring up to tension?
OK, pictures have a max pixel and file size. The file size is 2mb I think and don't remember the max pixel size. Anyhow, when you select the picture and hit the add button the screen scrolls up to the top. If too big it tells you the max sizes allowed but it is not obvious since the font and color are the same as everything. I use MS Office to resize the pictures and use 1024 X 768 which is a preset size and it is easy and works fine.
Remove the quill and the pinion shaft. Re-hook the spring to the pin. Install the pinion shaft. Wind up the spring about 3 1/2 turns and install the quill. You will have to wiggle things to get the pinion to engage the quill. Then the quill will retract until the spline shaft hits the drive sleeve and you will probably have to rock the quill shaft back and fourth to engage the splines. Then check the spring return tension. You might need/want to put another half turn of pre-tension on the spring.
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 9:15 pm
by oldiron
Welcome to the forum!
As John stated, reconnect the spring in the housing and re-install the pinion in the headstock. Crank the quill feed handle a "Full" 4 turns and insert the quill back in the headstock.
Don't try to wind the spring before inserting the pinion back in the headstock.
Congratulations on your 10E. The model 10 is a fine machine...
Mike
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 10:06 pm
by TooTall
John,
Thanks much!
I'll adjust the pics accordingly in the future.
I presume removing the quill doesn't cause anything else to come unglued like the kind of stuff that requires three hands, or y'all would have told me.
Mike,
Exciting acquisition indeed. Wish my dad was still alive to see it. . . but maybe he can.
The man had it listed for $200. but he let me have it for $150 including the caster'd cabinet it sits on, saw blades, two sets of lathe tools — one set being antique in a walnut box for finer work— and all the necessary allan wrenches etc.
I'm going to try my hand at making my own drum sticks.
Thanks,
Terry
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 2:55 am
by skou
Terry, the table saw on the Model 10 IS limited!
But, for what it does, it is QUITE capable!
You've got an 8 inch blade, and a tilting table
saw. Precision is amazing. As long as you're
working with small pieces.
You want to cut a piece of plywood in half?
(A 4 by 8 foot piece?) FORGETABOUTIT!
You want to cut out the fret wire slots on a tiny piece,
WE'RE here for you! It is a great trim saw!
If you need any other help, let us know.
I've got a small amount of experience with the
Model 10. (And, even LESS experience with the
rest of the Shopsmith collection.)
But, the Model 10 is the greatest Shopsmith around!
(Discount what the other guys say.)
Oh, since your handle is TooTall, you might want to
consider raising your Model 10. Let me know.
steve
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 1:25 pm
by TooTall
Hi John,
You wrote:
"You might need/want to put another half turn of pre-tension on the spring."
Did you mean adding another half turn at the start after quill removal, or can another half turn be added after the quill is reinstalled, by un-notching and turning the spring enclosure, without having the spring slip out of its housing?
Or did you mean that if I desire more tension, that I have to removing the quill again, to add the extra half turn or so?
Thanks,
Terry
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 1:57 pm
by TooTall
Hi Steve,
You wrote:
Terry, the table saw on the Model 10 IS limited!
You want to cut a piece of plywood in half?
(A 4 by 8 foot piece?) FORGETABOUTIT!
I was watching a Shopsmith promo video yesterday and they were doing exactly that to a full sheet of plywood, using bed extensions at both ends of the Smith.
If you need any other help, let us know.
I've got a small amount of experience with the
Model 10. (And, even LESS experience with the
rest of the Shopsmith collection.)
Here's something I'm dying to know . . . What if any is the difference between the 10E and the 10ER
or does the addition of the letter "R" just indicate a slightly later year of production.
My serial number is: 8443
But, the Model 10 is the greatest Shopsmith around!
(Discount what the other guys say.)
Do you mean actually better than the Mark V or VII or are you just kidding?
Oh, since your handle is TooTall, you might want to
consider raising your Model 10. Let me know.
Hadn't factored that in . . . Just thought I would sit on a stool to do lathe work. But for saw work I'd have to be standing. Mostly this will be my drill press. I was waiting for an old heavy duty, U.S. made Drill Press and this came up . . . sure glad it did!
Cheers,
Terry
Salt Spring Island
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 2:53 pm
by rjent
TooTall, I have split a couple of sheets of plywood using my 10ER, one on the 4 foot side and one on the 8 foot side, and it did fine. I DID have one of the other machines acting as an outfeed table and the Mark 7 acting as an infeed "helper". I felt very comfortible doing so and the saw itself made as good a cut as any of them. I prefer the 10ER for small parts, as skou pointed out, the control and precision seems to me to be better. It doesn't have the power for larger/thicker stock, but using it for what it is good at, it doesn't get any better.
There are subtle differences between the E and the ER. The R stands for "Revised" but they are small.
Hope it helps. They truly are great machines.
TooTall wrote:Hi Steve,
You wrote:
Terry, the table saw on the Model 10 IS limited!
You want to cut a piece of plywood in half?
(A 4 by 8 foot piece?) FORGETABOUTIT!
I was watching a Shopsmith promo video yesterday and they were doing exactly that to a full sheet of plywood, using bed extensions at both ends of the Smith.
If you need any other help, let us know.
I've got a small amount of experience with the
Model 10. (And, even LESS experience with the
rest of the Shopsmith collection.)
Here's something I'm dying to know . . . What if any is the difference between the 10E and the 10ER
or does the addition of the letter "R" just indicate a slightly later year of production.
My serial number is: 8443
But, the Model 10 is the greatest Shopsmith around!
(Discount what the other guys say.)
Do you mean actually better than the Mark V or VII or are you just kidding?
Oh, since your handle is TooTall, you might want to
consider raising your Model 10. Let me know.
Hadn't factored that in . . . Just thought I would sit on a stool to do lathe work. But for saw work I'd have to be standing. Mostly this will be my drill press. I was waiting for an old heavy duty, U.S. made Drill Press and this came up . . . sure glad it did!
Cheers,
Terry
Salt Spring Island
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 4:30 pm
by rpd
TooTall wrote:RPD,
Thanks.
It is actually a 10 E rather than a 10 ER/
Right you are, the differences however are fairly minor
I see you're in Victoria!
Yes, I live in Colwood, we are practically neighbours.
I'm on Salt Spring and the Shopsmith was here on the island. Got it from an 85 year old classical guitar maker. His guitars sell for $ 3000. and up and he used a super thin saw blade and the Shopsmith to cut his fret wire slots to perfection.
How wonderful to have met the previous owner and to know some of its story.
And yet I hear people put down the table saw attachment as though it's not a serious tool.
I have only recently started using one of mine for table sawing and have been pleased with the results. (just small projects so far.)
The table is small by today’s standards and it uses a tilting table rather than the tilting arbour design but for what I do it works great.
Cheers,
terry
One of my 10ERs is set up as a dedicated drill press.
I added a gas strut to the table on that one to make adjusting the table height easy.
Drill Press Table Lift Assist for10ER
Would love to see some pictures of you prize.
Re: Drill Press Quill Retract ?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 4:52 pm
by rpd
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