Worth working with or send to the dump???

[gpd132]

I didn't see any screws at all holding the way tubes in. You can see on one of the photos how they are currently in place. Let me know if I missed something.

[JPG]

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=3818

[TooTall]

Another simple rust removal method, is fine steel wool and Amsoil MP, which is an instant dissolver of rust and corrosion. I've use it for 40 years and it's great stuff. After rust penetration and after the wetness evaporates, it leaves a very light protective film of oil, hence the name Metal Protector. I use it everywhere on the Shopsmith from set screws to the ways/tubes.

Amsoil MP also dissolves the gum left behind as the very unstable WD 40 oxidizes to beat the band.
and WD doesn't cut rust worth a damn either.

This was the seized Coulter wheel of my Ford 110 plow. I was just dribbling Amsoil MP on it and without rubbing this is the result . . . first the dark chocolate brown and then the lighter brown rust.
The second photo was when I pulled the steering wheel from my '53 tractor. that lumpy looking rust on the splines is actually a rust pudding that was drooling down the shaft. I only let the MP penetrate for 20 minutes while I made up a steering wheel puller.

Instant rust Runoff

CoulterCollar_1024.JPG (205.78 KiB) Viewed 1885 times

1953 Steering Wheel Removal

Wheel Removal_VSm.JPG (210.31 KiB) Viewed 1882 times

[gpd132]

I have been trying to send additonal images and i keep getting this message "Your images may only be up to 1080 pixels high" Even though these images are smaller than the images i sent yesterday. Any ideas what the problem is?

[TooTall]

I was having trouble too so I opened those photos in a photo editing program to resize them.

If you need to keep the high resolution of your original photo, for printing purposes or whatever
then go File -->SAVE AS and rename this new "Save As" clone.

Then under EDIT, chose IMAGE SIZE.

In the next pane, check the "Restrain Proportions" box, and type in Width 1024. You'll see the other dimension change to 768 automatically because you chose to "Constrain; i.e., retain Proportions."
It might say: "Keep Aspect Ratio" rather than "Constrain Proportions"

Terry

[reubenjames]

TooTall,

I have a lawn tractor that needs what you've got! I'm taking your word as gospel. Is this the right stuff (vs. the "heavy duty" variety) before I go ahead and order it?

AMP.jpg (86.21 KiB) Viewed 1871 times

[everettdavis]

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=3818

JPG may have found your issue as It would be rather hard to remove them with the screws tightened.

After you get those out, if it still won't budge, there is another handy tool I have used successfully.

See https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 61#p189061

It allows you to hydraulically force penetration fluids in through the threaded opening. There I was using a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone which is also a good rust release compound.

You may find a jewel or two in it that will help you either on these tubes or something in the future.

Since I wrote that post I cited, a buddy wrote me he had used a salvaged brake cylinder from a car, filled it with his flavor of penetrant, adapted a flex hose to a fitting and put some serious muscle in to the hydraulic side of that equation. I haven't tried that yet, but then again, I haven't needed to yet.

Everett

[gpd132]

Also, any tips on how to clean up the aluminum stuff. It has a chalky white type corrosion on it. If I could get the pictures to work right I will send pics.

[TooTall]

Yep, that's it!
I used to sell all Amsoil synthetics and this MP was a part of the product line. When I stopped selling it in a serious way, I couldn't get along without the MP so I started ordering cases of it. Customers that used to buy it were asking for more.

Many success stories with it.
I had a big heavy office safe in my truck one time and took it over to the big city to try and sell.
I went in to Advance Lock and Safe and asked them what they sprayed in their safe lock mechanisms.
They said WD-40 and so I read them the riot act. I told them there wasn't much worse a thing they could spray into a lock because it turns to sticky gum after a few months. The incredible thing about MP is that the oil film left behind after you do your rust penetrating with it, NEVER oxidizes; i.e., never gets gummy!!

I found Power Lube by CRC cuts rust quickly too and on the can it reads: "Leaves an oil film that remains stable over time" -- that';s why I decided to try it. BUT after six months on the butterfly valve of my old Chev, it was getting a little sticky.

I sold cases of it to big bicycle shops in Vancouver. they loved it for ressurecting rusty stuff and because the oil film it leaves behind is perfect for bike chains, because it is light and relatively dry so that road dust doesn't stick to it. Also you don't get all oily yourself if your chain comes off or whatever.

T

Gun shops love MP to protect the barrels of their guns from customer fingerprints.

[everettdavis]

Also, any tips on how to clean up the aluminum stuff. It has a chalky white type corrosion on it. If I could get the pictures to work right I will send pics.

You may have missed it above. I wrote "Use Marvel Mystery Oil on a rag and rub the aluminum parts down to get rid of the crud and the oxides."

If you do have to brush it, use a ONLY a Solid Brass Wire Brush (NOT a Steel Coated with Brass Brush) as so many are that say they are a Brass Brush.

Use a magnet to test it if you are unsure. Brass will not attract the magnet. Brass coated steel will.

The Harbor Freight one item #47936 around $5 is not all brass. Although the packing stated "Brass", the wires are steel, just anodized.

A solid brass one that size is going to be near $40.00

Hand held ones are the same deal. The magnet is your friend.... use it, no matter what the package or price says.

Everett