Installing Jointer Blades

[reible]

I don't have a shopsmith jointer but am I correct in that you have to set the blades sightly higher then the fixed outfeed table? So if using a magnetic type gauge you need to space it up by .00X?

Ed

[rpd]

Or this one

mark vii logo 2 icon2.jpg (4.14 KiB) Viewed 5864 times

[jsburger]

JPG
What happened to the "hat"?
With the block of wood method the blade only touches wood at the TDC of the rotation regardless of the width of the blade due to sharpening. All blades will be in the same reference to the tables even if the blades are not the same width. (due to sharpening) I have used the magnetic holders and have not been happy. I get very consistent results with the owner's manual method.
Bill V

Bill, I agree with all you have said. I have only ever used the manual instructions and never had a problem. I even use this method to adjust my Powermatic 6" jointer blades. I also use the SS conical sanding disk and sharpening jig to sharpen them.

Here are a few things I feel are important and make the job easier. I have never found setting the blades to be tedious or hard.

All of this assumes you know the history of the jointer (It has always been in your hands) and is properly adjusted. All we are doing is sharpening.

When you remove the blades DO NOT touch the leveling screws. They were properly adjusted before you took the blades out. Sharpening the blades will remove material and make the blades narrower possibly requiring the leveling screws to be raised. This is always what you want. If you need to raise the blade you can adjust each leveling screw the same amount since the blade was parallel (level) to the out feed table to begin with.

Number the blades and the cutter head slots as you remove the blades. I use a black permanent marker.

Sharpen all three blades at the same time. They will all fit in the jig at the same time. This assures that they stay the same width. Not a big deal but can't hurt.

Using the manual instructions does not require the cutter head to be locked in place. Quite the contrary. I have always used a 6" stainless steel ruler as a straight edge. It does require gentle support between thumb and fore finger when rotating the cutter head to check the height. Not a big deal for me. A wood block will eliminate that. I have since bought a Woodpeckers 6" steel rule that also eliminates the need for manual support.

[dusty]

Well, in that case, I'll just drop the subject.

There is no value in me expressing my opinions on this matter.

[dusty]

I am contemplating some sort of fixture that will lock the cutter head at the correct point in rotation. Something that will very easy to use and even more easy to install an remove. In years gone by, I have clamped a pair of vise grips to an extender applied to the cutter drive shaft. The weight of the vise grips retards any tendency for that shaft to rotate.

Hey Dusty,
I stumbled on and tried the very same idea some time back, but abandon it because I could not get the vise grips to keep from moving ever so slightly, finding their weight rotated the shaft after I clamped them. As much as I tried to eyeball where the plumb bob effect was and tried to match it, I just could not get it! Glad you were able to make it work!!

And yes, the first time I reinstalled resharpened blades I did the rookie mistake of lowering the set screw and could not figure out why the danged blade did not go down!! . Operator error is a tough thing to live down!

Be well,
Ben

There are times when the user has no choice but to change the set screws. From time to time, after the retaining screws are removed the blade remains wedged in the cutter head. When this happens, sometimes you can apply a bit of pressure to the blades or to the wedges to pry them out but be careful. The blade may release suddenly and come out without your control. If the blade hits the floor it can be damaged beyond use.

To prevent this, I extract the blades by using the elevation set screws. Those set screws that John says he never changes. When that happens, you simply must go it on your own and that can get tedious. Unless, of course, "close enough for government work" fits your style. For this task, it does not fit mine.

Yes, the vise grips are less than ideal for this task.

[jsburger]

Well, in that case, I'll just drop the subject.

There is no value in me expressing my opinions on this matter.

Of course there is value in your opinions. If you find a better way we will all appreciate it. However, after over 60 years it does not seem to me that anyone has come up with a better solution than the instructions in the manual from the beginning.

Apparently you don't think the manual instructions are adequate. If you find a way that you think works better for you than go for it. If other people embrace it so much the better.

My opinion is that the manual instructions are adequate and easy to do so why reinvent the wheel except for the exercise? I also understand wanting to do the exercise.

[jsburger]

I am contemplating some sort of fixture that will lock the cutter head at the correct point in rotation. Something that will very easy to use and even more easy to install an remove. In years gone by, I have clamped a pair of vise grips to an extender applied to the cutter drive shaft. The weight of the vise grips retards any tendency for that shaft to rotate.

Hey Dusty,
I stumbled on and tried the very same idea some time back, but abandon it because I could not get the vise grips to keep from moving ever so slightly, finding their weight rotated the shaft after I clamped them. As much as I tried to eyeball where the plumb bob effect was and tried to match it, I just could not get it! Glad you were able to make it work!!

And yes, the first time I reinstalled resharpened blades I did the rookie mistake of lowering the set screw and could not figure out why the danged blade did not go down!! . Operator error is a tough thing to live down!

Be well,
Ben

There are times when the user has no choice but to change the set screws. From time to time, after the retaining screws are removed the blade remains wedged in the cutter head. When this happens, sometimes you can apply a bit of pressure to the blades or to the wedges to pry them out but be careful. The blade may release suddenly and come out without your control. If the blade hits the floor it can be damaged beyond use.

To prevent this, I extract the blades by using the elevation set screws. Those set screws that John says he never changes. When that happens, you simply must go it on your own and that can get tedious. Unless, of course, "close enough for government work" fits your style. For this task, it does not fit mine.

Yes, the vise grips are less than ideal for this task.

That is your choice so you suffer the problems you say you have incurred with the manual procedure.

I always gently pry on the wedges to remove them so as not to have to adjust the leveling screws. Is it easier than using the leveling screws to pop the wedge/blade out. I don't know. A few extra minutes prying on the wedges is well worth the extra "problems" associated with raising the leveling screws.

I am not sure what "close enough for government work" means in this case. The manual states 1 to 3 thou. Seems close enough for wood working. My "close enough for government work" when I was repairing aircraft generators was 3 to 7 thnths with Starret digital bore gauges that read to 4 1/2 digits.

[algale]

I am not sure what "close enough for government work" means in this case. The manual states 1 to 3 thou. Seems close enough for wood working. My "close enough for government work" when I was repairing aircraft generators was 3 to 7 thnths with Starret digital bore gauges that read to 4 1/2 digits.

That's one of those sayings that has taken on the exact opposite meaning of what the original intent was. Back in the day, good enough for government work meant it was the finest quality and would meet stringent government specs.

These days, not so much.

[jsburger]

I am not sure what "close enough for government work" means in this case. The manual states 1 to 3 thou. Seems close enough for wood working. My "close enough for government work" when I was repairing aircraft generators was 3 to 7 thnths with Starret digital bore gauges that read to 4 1/2 digits.

That's one of those sayings that has taken on the exact opposite meaning of what the original intent was. Back in the day, good enough for government work meant it was the finest quality and would meet stringent government specs.

These days, not so much.

I absolutely totally agree.

[JPG]

Router chuck 1/2" end to the jointer, 5/8" end to a 5/8" shaft(mortise holddown) and a sanding disk attached to that. Rig a saddle block across the way tubes and attach a clamp that tightens(squeezes from both sides) against the disc.

Random brain waves.

Would those be Alpha, Beta or Theta?
Anyway, what about setting up the jointer as though you were going to use it, attach the sanding disc to the quill, bring the table next to the disc, set the jointer blade to TDC, press the table next to the disc to keep it from moving, lock the carriage and adjust the blade height? Or have the table close and carriage locked, but extend the quill until the disc holds against the table and lock it? Either way, the sanding disc helps align TDC and then it is kept motionless while the blade height is set.

Be well,
Ben

Only if there is "NO" backlash between the quill and the idler shaft and the coupler(both ends). Not likely!