'55 Surprise...Starting Restoration

[reubenjames]

I defer to Ed's diagram with green arrow as being more correct than my diagram, simply because it is ShopSmith green.

[not2shabby]

That could be it! Thank you, both, for the help!

[JPG]

Yes the bearing belongs 'at the step'. The pix show the bearing over the TWO tapered flats that will be used when it is put back together. The smaller (inner) flat is for the knurled collar. The larger (outer) flat is for attaching arbors etc..

The purpose of the 'stud screw' is to position the carriage distance from the headstock so the saw blade is centered in the table blade slot.

A 'feature' best not restored. The spacer ring on the way tube was used in later models.(Mark VII excepted)

P.S. was there a retaining ring between the bearing and the end of the quill??

[oldiron]

Welcome not2shabby!

Ahh, Another Greenie resto!!! Congratulations with your new toy and do keep us posted...

It's always exciting to see new energy in restoring a fine machine!!!

Mike

[not2shabby]

Really appreciate your keen eye, JPG! Yes, there was a retaining ring on the outside of the bearing. I have it bagged and labeled. I whacked the business end with a rubber mallet before I took the retaining ring off. I'm thinking that's probably what unseated the bearing, too.

Is it worth adding some 3/8" spacers with 1-3/4" ID to the way tubes to center the saw blade?

[JPG]

Really appreciate your keen eye, JPG! Yes, there was a retaining ring on the outside of the bearing. I have it bagged and labeled. I whacked the business end with a rubber mallet before I took the retaining ring off. I'm thinking that's probably what unseated the bearing, too.

Is it worth adding some 3/8" spacers with 1-3/4" ID to the way tubes to center the saw blade?

IMHO - yes. Only one is 'typical'. However I think two is better. I have made them from 1 1/2" pvc pipe. Cut to 3/8" length and then cut a segment out so as to allow slipping it onto the way tube.

[not2shabby]

PVC Spacers are on my list.

Looks like the motor will require a lot of cleanup, bearings, and power cord. Reading other threads, I see 12/3 is what I need. Do I need more than 15ft? I will be very close to an outlet, so I'm thinking 15 is plenty for all ss operations.

Making my way through the sawdust sessions and replacing quill and drive bearings tonight! New gilmer belt is on the way.

Also, though I'm far from assembly, I was curious what (if any) lubricant/grease I should put on the quill splines.

[JPG]

PVC Spacers are on my list.

Looks like the motor will require a lot of cleanup, bearings, and power cord. Reading other threads, I see 12/3 is what I need. Do I need more than 15ft? I will be very close to an outlet, so I'm thinking 15 is plenty for all ss operations.

Making my way through the sawdust sessions and replacing quill and drive bearings tonight! New gilmer belt is on the way.

Also, though I'm far from assembly, I was curious what (if any) lubricant/grease I should put on the quill splines.

If Poly-v, none to powdered graphite(JMHO).

If Gilmer, axle grease or lithium grease(JMHO).

12-3 will do better, but 14-3 is adequate and easier to install. Get a 15' extension cord and cut the end off.

[jsburger]

PVC Spacers are on my list.

Looks like the motor will require a lot of cleanup, bearings, and power cord. Reading other threads, I see 12/3 is what I need. Do I need more than 15ft? I will be very close to an outlet, so I'm thinking 15 is plenty for all ss operations.

Making my way through the sawdust sessions and replacing quill and drive bearings tonight! New gilmer belt is on the way.

Also, though I'm far from assembly, I was curious what (if any) lubricant/grease I should put on the quill splines.

Yes I use 12/3 and 15' should be more than enough. I added a four outlet box to the back right leg. I changed the original power cord to 12/3 and shortened it to just reach the outlet box with some slack when the head stock is all the way to the left. That allows me to plug in the SS utility light directly on the machine and have extra sockets for anything else I might want to plug in without a bunch of extension cords.

I used 20' of 12/3 from the SS outlet box to the wall plug. It is overkill. I have never used any where that much.

The pictures are from my double tilt Power Pro upgrade. The first picture shows the outlet box on the leg on the right. The second picture shows how I store the extra cord. I use a Velcro tie strap.

[not2shabby]

Innovative outlet box. I like that.

I ordered a black extension cord and strain relief. I'm not very experienced with motors, but I've got it open and will see what I can do to figure out the wiring. I read Bill Mayo's comments about adding shrink sleeves to the connections inside the motor, so I'll go that route after I get the connections figured out.

I need to get better about taking pictures, but most of my shop time is at night.

New bearings are installed on the quill and gilmer drive. You don't know how bad old bearings are until you get new ones on. WOW.

My approach for the weekend:
1. Start electrolysis on the way tubes. Followed by drill-rig-lathe style finishing I've seen on other threads.
2. Use compressor to blow out motor. Inspect bearings, replace if necessary.
3. Begin cleaning/polishing of aluminum components.