Shopsmith Forums

Yes only shopsmith arbors. I assume you know that 500 arbors are shorter then the 510/520 arbors and to make sure you only use the correct arbor with your machine.

Ed

dafixer wrote:Ed, what are you using to sharpen blades? Do you have any pictures or videos of the sharpener?

Sorry I mislead you my saw sharpener is a business Roberts Saw here in Tampa.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.

dafixer wrote:You guys that are using blades with only a 5/8" arbor...did you buy the SS arbor or an aftermarket?

I use the SS 5/8" arbors. Haven't used the 1 1/4" arbor in forever.

Jack

Bill V, boy, you're right about that! I queried the company that makes the aftermarket, that sells for more than SS, and they said...

"New message from: bandsaw-tire-warehouse...We make our own arbors on a 200,000.00 cnc machine and unlike Shopsmiths ours fit the quill perfectly with no run out. We also have them in stock while Shopsmith may take 2-4 weeks to send one out. Also did you take in consideration their shipping cost?"

Well, I got my SS 1-1/4" and 5/8" arbors in 3 days so, their claim of 2-4 weeks is not entirely accurate. Plus, their arbors are $54.95 (+ $6.95 shipping).

Fixer
One thing that has not been mentioned here is that the SS arbors will come with the proper set screw. Do not use a cup end set screw on the headstock arbor. SS specifies that only flat point or ball end set screws should be used so the set screw will not dig into the quill shaft and cause burrs.
Bill V

Thanks Bill, I wasn't aware of that.

On another note, I've checked around Knoxville and found a professional sharpener that charges 35 cents per carbide tip. For a combo blade, it'll cost $19.21 with tax. The ripping blade will cost $9.22 to re-sharpen; cross-cut about $23.05.

Are these prices similar to what y'all are paying or charge?

Please know there is not a single make of saw blade that will yield a good glue edge. Those folks that settle for "saw blade cut saw joints" are getting a glue joint that contains both compression wood and torn wood. These are not suitable for glue penetration. What is holding such a joint is those parts of the cut that are true slices of the wood fibers. Compressed or torn wood fibers do not give a good glue joint.

I've always used Shopsmith blades and have been satisfied. Glue joints are always jointed or planed.

My blade sharpener came from Harbor freight. You can find it on their web site. Although their description says they do not hold a 1 1/4" hole in the blade, the cone will clamp down on the Shopsmith blade with a little to spare.

Over 10 years, I have only found the need to sharpen my multipurpose blade once.

Take a look at Irwin Marathon, I have been using them for years and prefer them over Forrest, freud and pretty much any other out there. I normally get the 40-80 tooth blades, they are half price of most of the Name brand.

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-MARATHON-Ca ... 1_2&sr=8-2

This is my favorite fro cross cutting BUT I do it on a Sliding Compound Miter Saw, which this blade is made for with a -5* Hook where on a table saw set up you dont need that -5* Hook.

@ Charlese > "Over 10 years, I have only found the need to sharpen my multipurpose blade once."

Reminds of when a was a youngen, my uncle got Popular Science and Mechanics. Back page always had an add for a carburetor that said you can get 30 days on a tank of gas. I asked my uncle how could that be? He said, "Just dont drive it"!!!!