Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:

Ed in Tampa wrote:Don't all the above methods depend on a perfectly aligned table to start with?
I want something that is aligned to .0001 perfection that will allow me to align my table to
0 plus or minus less than .001 tolerance.

This is unusual for me to say but .0001" tolerance factor is a bit anal. Most of us will probably accept wood working projects that are within 1/64" (.0156") and be proud of the work. Striving for .001" accuracy is a challenge. I now accept .005" setup tolerances and have not gotten any comments about how my joints look. And you can believe that the critics in my family would say something if they did not like it.

You misunderstood what I said I want the gauge so near perfect I can align the table to a plus minus .001" . To do that I would think the gauge would have to be in the .0001 range..

Hey I would be happy if I could adjust the table to the same 1/16 " tolerance easily and quickly..

I still bet Shopsmith has a way to adjust the new table to better than .005" in a production. setting. I would think a machine edge as you suggested would make it easier.
I would say if it was done right and SS could insure consistent 1/16" or less results that most everyone on this forum would consider buying it. I would and you all know how cheap I am.

Ed in Tampa wrote:

dusty wrote:

Ed in Tampa wrote:Don't all the above methods depend on a perfectly aligned table to start with?
I want something that is aligned to .0001 perfection that will allow me to align my table to
0 plus or minus less than .001 tolerance.

This is unusual for me to say but .0001" tolerance factor is a bit anal. Most of us will probably accept wood working projects that are within 1/64" (.0156") and be proud of the work. Striving for .001" accuracy is a challenge. I now accept .005" setup tolerances and have not gotten any comments about how my joints look. And you can believe that the critics in my family would say something if they did not like it.

You misunderstood what I said I want the gauge so near perfect I can align the table to a plus minus .001" . To do that I would think the gauge would have to be in the .0001 range..

Hey I would be happy if I could adjust the table to the same 1/16 " tolerance easily and quickly..

I still bet Shopsmith has a way to adjust the new table to better than .005" in a production. setting. I would think a machine edge as you suggested would make it easier.
I would say if it was done right and SS could insure consistent 1/16" or less results that most everyone on this forum would consider buying it. I would and you all know how cheap I am.

Ed, you can get there. There are several ways but I don't know of any that are any easier than either what Reible has suggested (the Master Plate), or what wooden jig that I built. Using the miter slots as the reference surface and adjusting the table so that those surfaces are parallel to the blade gets it done.

The steel disk that I just bought (the Setup Plate from Infinity Cutting Tools) is nothing more than a very rigid saw blade without teeth.

You could build a sub table using 1/2" aluminum plate and create a micrometer style adjustment for the table. It would not be that difficult and you would gain about 1/2" vertical on the table. There is a company out there that makes a similar device for the trunions on table saws. It has adjustment on one of the bolts and allows the adjustment by using the opposite diagonal bolt as a pivot. The biggest issue is that none of the SS components ( arbor, blade ) are going to be that accurate. You would have to make a cut and then adjust the table to the cut made with a specific blade. As soon as you change arbors to a different blade or plate you will introduce an error again that would exceed the accuracy you are trying to obtain. Although that level of accuracy is not necessary for my woodworking it is an interesting idea. Being able to dial in the accuracy of the table alignment would have some definite advantages. What is the accuracy of a SS shaft ? I have never measured it but I would guess it is greater than .001.
Paul

Dusty here is a link to in line industries who make the alignment kit for table saws. Might give you ideas. http://in-lineindustries.com/products/c ... -saw-pals/

I dont want to sound negative here, but I think it will come across that way. I love my SS, and all its multi tooling, BUT I have a dedicated Jet Table Saw, and no desire to use a SS no matter what model as a table saw.
They say in wood working 1/64 is more then acceptable, I strive for 1/128th of an inch. And that is Anal Retentive!! I think some are striving for machine shop standards on a device that is made for wood working, NOT metal machining standards, but knock your self out.
For all the talk here and time spent on SS tables alignment either there are no projects in your immediate future or you want to redesign the wheel. God Bless you for it, but a Sows Ear is not a Silk Purse, no how many times you tan it.
FYI, the Northern Native Americans are the only culture that did not have/use a wheel!!!

Unless I totally misunderstood you, are asking to re invent the wheel. I've seen an old magazine article about making the old 10ER. To finish the table a horizontal mill was used. On its's single shaft were mounted cutters that simultaneously cut the miter slots and trimmed the sides. Which, unless it was a terrible mill, automatically cut everything parallel.

cham-ed wrote:Unless I totally misunderstood you, are asking to re invent the wheel. I've seen an old magazine article about making the old 10ER. To finish the table a horizontal mill was used. On its's single shaft were mounted cutters that simultaneously cut the miter slots and trimmed the sides. Which, unless it was a terrible mill, automatically cut everything parallel.

Upon close examination of both a 10E table and a Greenie table, the milling marks are clear on the side edges.

However that is not the case with today's 5xx models.

JPG wrote:

cham-ed wrote:Unless I totally misunderstood you, are asking to re invent the wheel. I've seen an old magazine article about making the old 10ER. To finish the table a horizontal mill was used. On its's single shaft were mounted cutters that simultaneously cut the miter slots and trimmed the sides. Which, unless it was a terrible mill, automatically cut everything parallel.

Upon close examination of both a 10E table and a Greenie table, the milling marks are clear on the side edges.

However that is not the case with today's 5xx models.

Don't make me say it, JPG!

(The Model 10 is a superior machine.)

steve

skou wrote:

JPG wrote:

cham-ed wrote:Unless I totally misunderstood you, are asking to re invent the wheel. I've seen an old magazine article about making the old 10ER. To finish the table a horizontal mill was used. On its's single shaft were mounted cutters that simultaneously cut the miter slots and trimmed the sides. Which, unless it was a terrible mill, automatically cut everything parallel.

Upon close examination of both a 10E table and a Greenie table, the milling marks are clear on the side edges.

However that is not the case with today's 5xx models.

Don't make me say it, JPG!

(The Model 10 is a superior machine.)

steve

We both know what it is Steve, just sing it!!

I posted a post in another thread concerning table alignment http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 68#p220768. My cincern as stated in the post is that no matter how accurate you have aligned the table your cuts can be off once the machine is operating. The forces applied to the blade can and will create a error in alignment to the miter slot. This can be different for each blade you use. So in my humble opinion ( Ya I Know What They Are Like) it is always good to check the alignment with the machine operating.

See the other post for more on this and I also posted a link to a youtube video on this subject.

Straight Cuts
Mike