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Re: Jointer question

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 6:06 pm
by jsburger
ERLover wrote:Good point John, BUT he said he ran it 2-3 minutes with out cutting and it got hot. I would think with no load on it it would not be slipping. That would also depend on how worn the splines are. If worn that much, you/I would think with a cutting load the cutter head would bog down and not cut.
Without us there and JPG to anylize that,it is a hard call to make.
Yes, I thought about that while composing my previous post. Stranger things have happened though.

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 6:37 pm
by ERLover
jsburger wrote:
ERLover wrote:Good point John, BUT he said he ran it 2-3 minutes with out cutting and it got hot. I would think with no load on it it would not be slipping. That would also depend on how worn the splines are. If worn that much, you/I would think with a cutting load the cutter head would bog down and not cut.
Without us there and JPG to anylize that,it is a hard call to make.
Yes, I thought about that while composing my previous post. Stranger things have happened though.
True, I have seen a few, but I bet with your background you have seen more then me!!!!

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 8:18 pm
by JPG
JPG is as confused as everyone else.

Later version off set post is the best lateral adjustment.

Lacking them, loosen the two screws and rotate the entire end(spt mount, end casting, legs). Then tighten the screws.

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 7:47 pm
by hhill
Thanks for the input JPG,ERLover,et al.

Later tonight, I am going to pull the cutter head from the jointer and pull the bearings. Then I will make a judgment call to order either new bearings or depending on what the cutter head shaft looks like a new cutter head assembly. Then tomorrow, I will order one of those parts and an extra set of blades just to justify the shipping costs. I am also going to order the eccentric mounting tubes even though the alignment is within 1/16" on the drive shafts and hubs. That way by the time I finish, I will have a like new jointer for half the cost of a new one.

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:33 pm
by ERLover
hhill wrote:Thanks for the input JPG,ERLover,et al.

Later tonight, I am going to pull the cutter head from the jointer and pull the bearings. Then I will make a judgment call to order either new bearings or depending on what the cutter head shaft looks like a new cutter head assembly. Then tomorrow, I will order one of those parts and an extra set of blades just to justify the shipping costs. I am also going to order the eccentric mounting tubes even though the alignment is within 1/16" on the drive shafts and hubs. That way by the time I finish, I will have a like new jointer for half the cost of a new one.
It is you call. Without looking up what you are thinking on SS site. Taking the cutter head off with the bearings on the shaft is easy. Dependeing on your skills/ bearing/gear puller, taking off the old ones would be easy. It is just pressing on the new ones. Any tool and die shops near you? I live near a community full of them. This summer for an ER speed changer I need new oil lite bushing/bearings pressed into the shaft, I got the old ones out myself. I could have bought an Arbor press from Harbor Freight for 39$ to press in the new ones, spent 10 minutes driving around town, Accurate Machining, stopped in told them what I needed, 5 minutes later done, I asked what I owed him, said nothing. I already had a 10$ in my hand when I shook his.

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 7:43 pm
by charlese
hhill wrote:... Yes coupler aligned with in a 1/16" both vertical and horizontally; however there is really no adjustment in the horizontal plane unless I am missing something. ...
Yes, there is adjustment possible in the horizontal plane. In fact this is what made it difficult for me. You have to loosen the screws holding the eccentric tubes in the joiner - AND hold the vertical position while rotating the two tubes left or right to get the proper horizontal alignment.

My solution was to work a wood shim between the base and the joiner to hold the vertical position. It is tricky and may require a cuss word, but when there - it is wonderful.

Best Wishes -

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 7:55 pm
by jsburger
charlese wrote:
hhill wrote:... Yes coupler aligned with in a 1/16" both vertical and horizontally; however there is really no adjustment in the horizontal plane unless I am missing something. ...
Yes, there is adjustment possible in the horizontal plane. In fact this is what made it difficult for me. You have to loosen the screws holding the eccentric tubes in the joiner - AND hold the vertical position while rotating the two tubes left or right to get the proper horizontal alignment.

My solution was to work a wood shim between the base and the joiner to hold the vertical position. It is tricky and may require a cuss word, but when there - it is wonderful.

Best Wishes -
The older jointers had straight tubes not the eccentric tubes.

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 8:04 pm
by JPG
jsburger wrote:
charlese wrote:
hhill wrote:... Yes coupler aligned with in a 1/16" both vertical and horizontally; however there is really no adjustment in the horizontal plane unless I am missing something. ...
Yes, there is adjustment possible in the horizontal plane. In fact this is what made it difficult for me. You have to loosen the screws holding the eccentric tubes in the joiner - AND hold the vertical position while rotating the two tubes left or right to get the proper horizontal alignment.

My solution was to work a wood shim between the base and the joiner to hold the vertical position. It is tricky and may require a cuss word, but when there - it is wonderful.

Best Wishes -
The older jointers had straight tubes not the eccentric tubes.
The reason I recommend the newer eccentric tubes is that it provides a way to readjust the jointer alignment after the headstock eccentric(belt tension) is adjusted. That adjustment alters both the horizontal and the vertical alignment of the idler shaft.

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 9:34 pm
by ERLover
@ JPG, I did not know that, but again I dont sleep with mine. nice info to now know.
"The reason I recommend the newer eccentric tubes is that it provides a way to readjust the jointer alignment after the headstock eccentric(belt tension) is adjusted. That adjustment alters both the horizontal and the vertical alignment of the idler shaft."

@ Charlese, ya, and keep the fingers out of any pinch/crush point!!! I had a neighbor help me with mine when doing it. The nephews Menards clone on eccentrics that is a 6" wide and a bit longer then the SS, well, I had to do the hot paper clip through the finger nail for him, he was lifting and holding while I was doing the adjustment and tightening. He had his hand in the wrong place and relaxed a bit. Smart guy, but a food chemist, not years in the "mechanical shop".

Re: Jointer question

Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:40 pm
by hhill
JPG, Charlese, et al,

This old jointer has straight tubes, which is why I ordered eccentric tubes for it so I will have some horizontal adjustment just like my band saw.

Anyway, I placed my order yesterday for new bearings, knives, and the tubes. I checked today and it said that it has shipped. So next week I will go to a machine shop and have the new bearings pressed on the cutter head, and I will be back in business.

Thanks for the help.