Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

ERLover wrote:B4 his Highness chimes in, must be taking $ from the natives, and not to insult anyones smarts here, I hope you drain it on a regular bases.

After each use is good procedure!

Absolutely! I turn it off and drain it every time I leave the shop. I got tired of reaching under it to turn the petcock so I removed it and replaced it with a valve that is easily accessible.

Here is my tip of the day, circa 17 March 2009:

http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic ... ain#p33214

I do like the lever valve, might have to make that change. I just move the one from the bottom of my tank to the end of the pipe but I can see the advantage of the lever.

Ed

reible wrote:Here is my tip of the day, circa 17 March 2009:

http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic ... ain#p33214

I do like the lever valve, might have to make that change. I just move the one from the bottom of my tank to the end of the pipe but I can see the advantage of the lever.

Ed

Yes, you have to bend down to close it but I open it with my foot.

You need more teflon tape on those joints!!!!!

My primary compressor (in the farm shop) tank failed but the compressor and motor are good. This fall I got a very nice 60 gal. vertical tank at an auction for a few bucks. I have not hooked it up yet but I disconnected the old tank and for now just running it on the tank on my tire changer. That compressor didn't do a very good job of draining the bottom of the horizontal tank, many of them don't. This tank I bought has the drain in the very center of the round bottom and as long as I don't create a stand pipe in the bottom of the tank with the fittings it should drain well.
I recall back in high school (a few years ago ) that as part of a special metal shop program I was in one of my jobs was to blow off the machinery at the end of each day and to then drain the condensation out of the tank of the big wagon shaped compressor I used. It used a drain the the center of the end of the horizontal tank and had a tube down to the bottom to get the water out. I recall that even though I drained it religiously it always retained about a half inch or so of water in the bottom that would not drain out. Neither it nor my compressor tank were that well designed for draining.
I have a spot cleared in a section of loft that is not very convenient for daily use where I want to set it and then plumb it straight down through the loft floor into the shop. The drain valve will sit at about waist height on the wall. I will use either black pipe or copper to plumb that part of it. That will place it in the area where I want it without eating any space out of that work area. I will need to plan a way to prevent the drop pipe from freezing since I usually only heat that shop when I am working there or plan to soon. I might use a 3' heat tape and a bit of pipe wrap. Did I mention how much I like having my woodshop in the basement where I have full heat and AC and never having to walk in snow, Ice or mud to get to it? It's not perfect but far better than any of my previous shops.


.

here is one idea on your drop pipe. say you are using 3/4 for your system, as you come to the drop step it up to a short section of 2 inch at the bottom as a water catch than put a drain cock in the bottom. also I hate to see PVC as an air system IMHO it is dangerous as it can blow and send shrapnel, i have seen it crack in the corners of tee's and elbow's. also I would use a flex line between the compressor and the air line system.

bill50cal wrote:here is one idea on your drop pipe. say you are using 3/4 for your system, as you come to the drop step it up to a short section of 2 inch at the bottom as a water catch than put a drain cock in the bottom. also I hate to see PVC as an air system IMHO it is dangerous as it can blow and send shrapnel, i have seen it crack in the corners of tee's and elbow's. also I would use a flex line between the compressor and the air line system.

My current "system" in the farm shop is simply regular 3/8" air hose. Cheap, safe and has a very high pressure rating. Brass hose barbs are available at most hardware, auto parts or farm stores. It comes from the compressor in a back corner (less noise) to near one overhead door where it Tee's with one 100' line I can use inside or outside and the second line running to my tire changer. I've never really felt a need for much else. The 100' line will reach most any thing we drive where we park them.


.

JPG wrote:You need more teflon tape on those joints!!!!!

Nah, that was enough. It doesn't leak.

As far as draining your air tanks and ease of doing just that; you need to visit your nearest truck parts supplier. The cheapest solution is a drain valve with a steel cable pull. Now you don't have to reach under the tanks, just place the end where it is handy. Now just pull the cable anytime you want to drain the tank.
More expensive is an automatic drain valve. No work on your part to keep the tank dry. Every time the compressor cycles, the valve "sneezes" and for a second it ejects any moisture in the tank.