Shopsmith Forums

edflorence wrote:FWIW, my bike mechanic son told me a while back that Boeshield T-9 was the best for keeping bike chains rust-free. I have been using it for about 3 years and so far so good. No experience really with the other products, but this one does seem to work. Full Disclosure: I have nothing to do with the company that makes the stuff.

He is probably right it will keep it rust free, but bioshield remains tacky and will attract dirt. On nonmoving parts that is not a problem but on a bike chain exposed to sand it becomes a rubbing compound. It will destroy a chain in a heart beak in sandy soil.Florida!

A dry silicon or graphite is best for chain lube. It lube buts does not attract dirt.

No dirt bike racer would ever use a product like bioshield on their chain if they wanted to finish the race. I have seen people use similar products and at the end of the race their chain was bright and shinny but had stretched so far you could not keep it on the sprocket.

WD-40 doesn't cause problems with finishing??? You have to be kidding.

FWW tested for that and claimed it didn't. Actually, almost all of the spray-on rust inhibitors they tested (except Moovit) were petroleum based, and none of them caused finishing problems.

john_001 wrote:

WD-40 doesn't cause problems with finishing??? You have to be kidding.

FWW tested for that and claimed it didn't. Actually, almost all of the spray-on rust inhibitors they tested (except Moovit) were petroleum based, and none of them caused finishing problems.

FWW is a very good magazine but that is just ridiculous. Because petroleum rust inhibitors do cause problems with finishes is precisely why we use Johnson's paste wax on the SS. Of course as Chris said, if you don't actually get any on the wood it won't be a problem.

jsburger wrote:

john_001 wrote:

WD-40 doesn't cause problems with finishing??? You have to be kidding.

FWW tested for that and claimed it didn't. Actually, almost all of the spray-on rust inhibitors they tested (except Moovit) were petroleum based, and none of them caused finishing problems.

FWW is a very good magazine but that is just ridiculous. Because petroleum rust inhibitors do cause problems with finishes is precisely why we use Johnson's paste wax on the SS. Of course as Chris said, if you don't actually get any on the wood it won't be a problem.

Maybe they are just not as bad as silicone!

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:

john_001 wrote:

FWW tested for that and claimed it didn't. Actually, almost all of the spray-on rust inhibitors they tested (except Moovit) were petroleum based, and none of them caused finishing problems.

FWW is a very good magazine but that is just ridiculous. Because petroleum rust inhibitors do cause problems with finishes is precisely why we use Johnson's paste wax on the SS. Of course as Chris said, if you don't actually get any on the wood it won't be a problem.

Maybe they are just not as bad as silicone!

Just as not bad is still bad.

The simplest way to prevent rust on the metal parts of un-used machines is to coat them with WD-40. Even Nick Engler agrees with this in one of the old posts.

It is easy to clean off with mineral spirits if needed. I have a metal vice that was coated with WD-40 years ago when living in South Texas where there was due every morning for the 5 years I lived there. Also there is no rust on the table not the plate.

So the advice of my Shopsmith demonstrator to use Johnson's paste wax was flawed?

kkoyle wrote:So the advice of my Shopsmith demonstrator to use Johnson's paste wax was flawed?

I do not think so.

For a machine in reasonably constant use, JPW is preferable. Wood debris will not stick to it.

However for longer term prevention the JPW will not hold up. The other stuff mentioned will last longer, but it will allow saw dust to accumulate under use.