ShopSmith Routing System

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 12:54 pm

barbandrob wrote:Attached is the only picture I have of my unit. I don't pick it up until next Thursday. Let me know what you think.

Thanks!

You asked - what we think. Good photo - You can make or buy a table - I'm a little concerned that the Depth Control Handle doesn't show in the photo. If missing, ask for some compensation to buy a new replacement. (see the illustration on page 10 of the attached) http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... Router.pdf

BTW - the OPR manual is a good read! There are lots of helpful tips and pictures/illustrations.

barbandrob · Post by **barbandrob** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:34 pm

charlese wrote:You asked - what we think. Good photo - You can make or buy a table - I'm a little concerned that the Depth Control Handle doesn't show in the photo. If missing, ask for some compensation to buy a new replacement. (see the illustration on page 10 of the attached) http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... Router.pdf

BTW - the OPR manual is a good read! There are lots of helpful tips and pictures/illustrations.

Hi Chuck - Actually, it must not be that great a picture, because it fooled me, my husband and you about that depth arm. It actually is there - you just need to look a little closer. It's laying horizontally, all the way to the back and the handle is disguised in the bracket for the arm.

Thanks for the link to the manual! Sounds like a bunch of good info!

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:41 pm

Sure enough! It's there. Wonder if Dusty's eye Dr. is busy?:rolleyes:

barbandrob · Post by **barbandrob** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:50 pm

If he's not, perhaps you can make an appointment for my husband and I as well - we stared at that pic for days, trying to figure out what was missing.

So, for all you much-more-experienced router folk, just what is the benefit of having an under table router when you have one over the table that is also vertical? This confuses me and I'm thinking it may be why they ditched the design in the first place.

Questions, questions, questions...

seajay62 · Post by **seajay62** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 2:20 pm

Dusty,

The complete statement at the end of the article is as follows:

"As with all Shopsmith products, the Shopsmith Router Arm is covered by the Shopsmith Gold Medal Buyer Protection Plan, which includes a 30-day, money back guarantee, a full one-year warranty, and a lifetime reconditioning program."

In any case, I was told by customer service that doesn't hold true for discontinued products.

Rick,

You are absolutely correct about the need for a beefy bracket. My mistake of not thinking about it before I picked up the Overarm Bracket and post,

Regards,
Joe

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:53 pm

seajay62 wrote:I also have just received the discontinued single post overarm router. See attachment for a picture from a similar unit except that I do not have the bracket on the main post. According to customer service, since it is a discontinued product, nothing is available for it - no manuals, no parts, etc. except those parts that may be common to the new model. However, according to my Hands On Fall 1987 issue, "As with all Shopsmith products, the Shopsmith Router Arm is covered by...a lifetime reconditioning program." That doesn't seem to be a true statement any longer.

I have looked at the SS site and picked up some info but would like to get hold of information to build a table. From what Barb wrote, she needs some table info as well. Also, I did not receive the bracket to connect the 2 3/4 inch post to the table. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to get a bracket or modify something to make it work?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Joe

Joe
I think you have few options here.
Option 1
Get a piece of 4x4 Hard wood (Hard Maple perhaps) you will need a length about 6-10 inches long. In the center drill a 2 3/4 hole and then cut the wood lenghtwise down the center.
Bolt one half to your table and put the other piece on using long lag or through bolts. Stick the support tube in the hole and tighten the bolts. It should hold your wood just fine. If the wood won't tighten enough take off the outside piece and sand it down on the cut line. With the saw kerf and perhaps a little sanding you should be able to clamp it tight to the support column.

Option2
Build what I suggestted above only out of pine. After you get everything the way you want it. Take the whole assembly to a machinist and have him duplicate the parts out of metal.

Option 3
This I just thought of. Construct your table and then check out a clamp like a exhaust system clamp that has a metal bracket and a U shaped piece that is threaded on both ends that tightens a tube when the nuts are tighten on the thread portion. Tow or three of these clamps should hold the column for you.

Option 4 find some one selling a Radial Arm saw ( there was a recall of Sears Radial arm and some weren't able to be updated so Emerson who built the saws offered a $100 check when you sent the motor assembly to them.) There is probably a few RAS out there that don't have saw motors anymore and you could use their column to mount your OPR on.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:42 pm

In my previous post speaking about option 1 instead of using a 4x4 hard wood after more thought I think I would build the frame for my table and on back side I would use glued up ply wood the length of the table is wide. I would glue up enough sheets of ply to end up with a glued up board about 4 inches thick and about 4 inches wide and as long as the table is wide.
Then I would bore a 2 3/4 hole and then slice the wood lengthwise with the cut bisecting the hole. I would then bolt on half to the table and set the other half in place using bolts that pass through both pieces. I would then set the column in place and tighten the bolts. You may want to use 4 bolts two that the top and two at the bottom.
Ed

seajay62 · Post by **seajay62** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:36 pm

Ed,

Thanks for the good ideas on the bracket solution. I was thinking about option 1 and possibly 4 since I have one of those Craftsman RAS. I was going to find time tomorrow to go into the shop and measure the column on the RAS before I pursued that option.

Also, the post by Rick of Ed's pixs was very helpful. I have a friend who does some welding and I was thinking about getting some U-channel cut and bent into a box and welded for strength to support both the post and the table. I need to study the pixs a bit more and will come up with something. I appreciate you creativity and it helped me to get my mind going. Thanks again.

Regards,
Joe

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:29 pm

barbandrob wrote:"...So, for all you much-more-experienced router folk, just what is the benefit of having an under table router when you have one over the table that is also vertical? This confuses me and I'm thinking it may be why they ditched the design in the first place.

Questions, questions, questions...

This is an interesting question Barb. The same question, in reverse, is most probably asked by anyone with a router table while contemplating obtaining an overhead system. Here's a short, less than complete answer. ---

At first thought, there is one thing a woodworker can do on an overhead router that can't be done on an under table one. That is pin routing. This way, many duplicates can be made from one template and even some sculpting of relief plaques and relief signs. Table routers can be used to make duplicates by using routing templates or flush bits with a top bearing. Duplicates can also be made with hand held routers. It just seems that pin routing is a bit easier.

The first routers for home craftsmen were hand held. Soon tables came into vogue. Many of us have used router tables and are used to them and their quirks. There is a wide variety of fences and jigs that allow a multitude of operations. We adapted our skills and our brains to think of the table router.

Box joints are one reason to have a router table as well as an OR. There are probably several more. With an overhead router, since there are not as many in use, woodworking magazines have not devoted space to their use an possible jigs. I would find it prohibitive to make a jig for an overhead router that would allow making routed box joints on the ends of a board of any apreciable length. However, box joints are easily cut on a table router with a simple jig. (with Shopsmith's OPR in horizontal mode box joints are as easy as with under table router)

Now let me digress to my not totally unbiased thoughts of - "Is there a reason to keep my router table, now that I have an OPR?" As of now I have only thought of one reason to keep my router table. The table is huge! 3' by 4' if needed and there is an infeed side (workbench) that is more than 8'. Outfeed can be through the door and is unlimited. Other than that, there is no operation that I think can only be done on the table, and not also done on the new OPR. The Key is the horizontal mode.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:48 am

"Crossing my fingers and begging for a really clever person who desperately wants to figure out the perfect table plans for me and Joe..."

Some ideas; see Sawdust Sessions 3, 4, 5, 7, & 8. Clever, maybe; desperate, ever so.
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With all good wishes,