SS 10er suddenly will not start

[everettdavis]

The motor in your unit could have a centrifugal start switch circuit that may have some accumulated gunk between the contacts or have another mechanical restriction that keeps it from returning to closed.

Were that the case, the motor would likely hum.

You say no sound at all which really points to a broken switch or a broken wire in the path.

It could be anywhere but replacing the power cord (3 wire with ground) and the switch is not only a great improvement for the future, but will likely resolve the problem.

Everett

[oldiron]

You can also purchase a "Replacement" cord from the big orange box home improvement store. I have purchased several of them as replacements. They are 9' long with the three prong male end and bare leads on the other. Black in color.

Mike

[everettdavis]

Randy,

How is it going? Have you replaced the replacement parts and are you now operational?

Everett

[dusty]

Does anyone use an ohmmeter to check things like switches and cables????

If this problem is the result of a dead switch that would become conclusive with a simple open/short test of the switch (and the power cord as well).

[JPG]

Does anyone use an ohmmeter to check things like switches and cables????

If this problem is the result of a dead switch that would become conclusive with a simple open/short test of the switch (and the power cord as well).

If one has one and knows how to use it then it is unlikely the question will be raised herein.

A tracer light will work as well.

[dusty]

It is certain that at least some of the forum members will disagree with me but it is my opinion that if one does not have and know how to use a volt/ohm meter, that some one should not be performing the type of repairs that are being discussed in this thread.

Get qualified assistance.

[JPG]

Replacing a line cord and switch?

Yep I disagree.

Where/when did you learn about or how to use a vom?

I was rewiring lamps etc. before I knew a vom existed.

[reible]

VOM's, we lived in the same area where Simpson Meters came from, they were started in 1936 and by the time I was in school they were generous enough to have donated some equipment and I was in the first electronics class in our HS. It was interesting, they thought it was going to take a whole quarter to complete but then they had two of us who finished in about 3 weeks. Rather then bore us to death we got to play with all the surplus gear that they had acquired. Most of it army surplus with no manuals or much of an idea of what it was. Even back then I loved taking things apart......

Basically we had a couple of months to play while they were trying to figure out how to structure the class due to the wide disparity of students. They finally gave up and stopped the class for the rest of the time I was there while they hoped to work things out. So I guess I was lucky in that way.

So I knew how to use the old analog meters way back then. Now with the digital meters you can't even bend the needles anymore. The basics are pretty basic.

Ed

[jsburger]

I agree with you Dusty. In this thread we have an unknown electrical issue. Unless you have as a minimum a VOM how can you find the faulty component. Willey nilley changing probable defective parts is not the way. A VOM will easily isolate the problem as long as you know how to use it.

However, I also agree with JPG to a certain extent. If I have an easily verified physical defect in a wire, plug or anything else ( deteriorated insulation on a power cord, i.e.) then I don't need a VOM.

[dusty]

Please do acknowledge, JPG, that when rewiring a lamp from your childhood era (with two wires that can be connected either way and still function properly) is just a little bit different than rewiring for this situation.

If the defect was easily verified and corrected, this thread would likely not be three days old and now off topic.