Shopsmith Forums

Can we assume that you have checked that all the locks are locked? Especially the quill lock? Unaccounted for movement always has a reason and the simplest things need to be checked first. Start at the saw arbor and work back checking all the locks.

Ed

the sled may be raising up off the table just a bit ?


Hobbyman2

Thanks for all the replies. A few answers.

The sled has two runners. The miter slots are square to the sanding disc and is square to a Master Plate.

I took JPG's advice and removed the work piece after making the cut instead of retrieving it back through the blade and the cuts improved noticeable.

I am confident the sled is square to the blade but but somehow the work piece is creeping slightly. In the past I simply used the Incra Miter incorporating the fence from an original Incra Jig and got good results and finishing the cut using the disc sander as was offered as a suggestion.

I just thought by making a sled, it would be accurate and eliminate a step or two. (I tend to be somewhat lazy sometimes).

I did modify the old Incra Jig stop block somewhat as shown in the attached photo

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Don G

Quite a long time ago someone on the internet posted a video showing how to true up a table saw sled using 5 steps and one adjustment. Made a dead on cut after one adjustment.
Bill V

Wa2crk

I remember seeing that video a couple of years ago. However, I am still not comfortable with the table being tilted with one arm at chest high and the other at your waist and the stock trying to slide. Just seems like too much "Holding on " to suit me. It's really not too much of a problem, there is always the radial arm saw it I start using too much wood.

Don G

William Ng posted the 5 cut video on Youtube. I've also seen a solution where a sled was made that rode on the table horizontally, but introduces the board at 45 degrees to the blade like this

Doing that may require a zero clearance insert. ?

Hobbyman2

dgreen810 wrote:Wa2crk

I remember seeing that video a couple of years ago. However, I am still not comfortable with the table being tilted with one arm at chest high and the other at your waist and the stock trying to slide. Just seems like too much "Holding on " to suit me. It's really not too much of a problem, there is always the radial arm saw it I start using too much wood.

Don G

The work piece will tend to creep resulting in what you are seeing even if the table is not tilted. The same thing happens on my cabinet saw so it is not unique to the SS.

The SS miter gauge with it's hold down prevents the stock from moving. When I use my sleds on the SS I use a stop block clamped to the sled fence for repeated cuts. For a single cut if I want a precise cut I clamp the stock to the fence.

One thing that makes a difference is good quality SHARP blades.

Hobbyman2 wrote:Doing that may require a zero clearance insert. ?

Hobbyman2

By creating the edge of the sled with the saw blade used, the advantages of a zero clearance insert is obtained since the edge of the sled acts as a backup that will eliminate tearout.

I would be as concerned about the small piece of waste binding between the blade and the insert as well as tear out, I understand what ya are saying though.

I make my table inserts for different cuts ,,especially angle cuts and dado's ,usually from wood ,,, piece of cake on the SS.

Maybe tomorrow I can take a couple pictures.

Hobbyman2