Broke Trunnion Bolt on Delta

[masonsailor2]

I have broken one of them down to components and yes turning it over is the way to do it. One additional item is the arbor and bearings. Very easy to replace and also pretty inexpensive so now is the time to do it if needed. The bearings are a very common bearing and the arbor available from Delta.
Paul

[Dansmith]

Ed, thanks for the tip on how tight to make them. I wasn't too sure. I don't think I overtightened, at least in refrence to the other 3.

[Dansmith]

I have broken one of them down to components and yes turning it over is the way to do it. One additional item is the arbor and bearings. Very easy to replace and also pretty inexpensive so now is the time to do it if needed. The bearings are a very common bearing and the arbor available from Delta.
Paul

Thanks. However, the arbor bearing appear to be in fine shape, at least I hope. By the way, to replace the bearing, do you have to remove the trunnions?

[Hobbyman2]

It would be nice if you could contact Delta or a manual /chart some where to find out the torque of the bolt,,,,, that way it is factory set to their specs .You shouldn't break another one if you follow the specs.

===============

Tightening Torque Guide for Grade 5 & 8 Hex Cap Screws
GRADE 5
Coarse Thread
Size Clamp Load Plated
1/4-20 (.250) 2025 76 in lbs.
5/16-18 (.3125) 3338 13 ft lbs.
31 more rows
Tightening Torque Guide - Alma Bolt Company
http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/b ... torque.htm



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Hobbyman2

[Dansmith]

Got it done today. Was able to turn it over myself onto a table I built around the ame height as the saw stand. Eaiser than I thought that would be.
As luck would have it, the remaining portion of the bolt was in a difficult to reach spot for my drill to hit it straight on. Used a dremel to drill the center with a center drill. So far so good.

Used the drill with the lef hand drill bit in reverse at a slight angle, but not slight enough. I ended up having to go deeper, and I finally got it to come out. Problem was that i drill through the side of the remains of the blt and into the threads of the cast iron table. Didn't realize it until I had the bolt out.

Good news. The drill did not puncture the hole, and the new bolt went on real nicely.

After some cleaning, I turned it back on the stand and bolted it back together. Had to adjust the trunnion brackets, and got it to within .002 alignment between the blade and the miter slots, with the blade in the full up position.

Unfortunately, when I lower the blade height, the alignment goes out (did the same thing before I tried to align it in the first place, the other day). Most of my cutting is with the blade at the lower height; so, I'm not pleased in that regard. Interestingly, every guide I have read says to adjust the distances with the blade fully up. Anyone have any ideas as to why it is doing this?

[wa2crk]

Measuring with the blade at full height the run out is more apparent because of the longer distance. I would suspect that the blade may not be at 90 deg causing the measurement to change when the blade is lowered.
Bill

[Hobbyman2]

?

Is it out Front to back or top to bottom?

Is it the table or the blade that is out?

What kind of calibration device are you using to detect the off set?

I had a square once that wasn't square!!

Had me all screwed up.

Can you use a sanding disc to get a better idea ?

Hobbyman2

[Ed in Tampa]

If the blade adjustment changes when the blade goes up and down it could be one of two problems. Something in the assembly the holds the arbor got racked. Or the two trunnions are not co planar.

They must be parallel. They must be vertical. They must be aligned front to back left to right.

Check if they are 90 degree vertical to the table. Check if they are perfect parallel to each other.
Check to see if they are same distance from the edge of the table front to back and left to right.

You can shim these! If the trunnions are good then the problem is in the depth of cut slide that abor rides in. Again you can shim things to bring this into alignment.

There is a Delta step by step procedure for doing all these checks and alignment. Most trunnion problems show up as blade heeling when the blade is tilted to cut a bevel. One end of the blade swings out or in as the blade is tilted.

That usually says the trunions are not co planar. I would check that first at a constant depth if there is no blade misalignment then the trunions are good and the change of the blade alignment must be coming from the depth of cut mechanism. A slight blend in the vertical slides I'll do this. Again it can be shined.

That all said you are checking the blade with the same blade and using the same tooth aren't you?

[Dansmith]

?

Is it out Front to back or top to bottom?

Is it the table or the blade that is out?

What kind of calibration device are you using to detect the off set?

I had a square once that wasn't square!!

Had me all screwed up.

Can you use a sanding disc to get a better idea ?

Hobbyman2

Thanks. Blade is out front to back. I don't think the table is out. Using a cut off peice of wood clamped to miter guage and accurate combo square.

[Dansmith]

Thanks, Ed. I think you ay be on to something with the alignment of the trunnion which may have something to do with the 2 tie bars between the trunnions. I came across something in that regard while researching this issue. I"ll be checking for this. I will keep you all posted.

Thanks wa2crk. I am measuring on the same tooth.