Shopsmith Forums

I know of only two versions of the glides, one is a white nylonish material with a slot on one end and a tapered flat point on the other. It was orginial with my 1976 from the factory. This in adjusted from the top of the of the compass head and extends as needed to remove the rocking of the head when sitting on the main table.(when replacing these nylon parts I found it best to start it backwards from the bottom and after the treads engage use the screwdriver from the top to position it.) A second metal set screw with the 5/32" allen sits above that. The purpose of the second set screw is to hold the rod in the head. It is normally kept atop the nylon looking one so it stays in place and will be there when needed.
The while nylon bit is about 3/8" long but could have been replaced with a longer version but it can not be longer then 3/4" or it will interfere with the rod sliding in the hole. The metal setscrew is 1/4", again it could be longer. With it tighten atop the nylon one the rod will slip in without hitting, well providing the two don't add up to more then 3/4".

The newer version has a hex head with a slot. It is inserted and screwed in from the bottom. On the couple I have the screw is a loose fit and will not stay adjusted unless the metal set screw is screwed in and tighten. Now it could be it just the ones I have but if yours is like mine it helps to make sure the set screw is in place.
In both cases the threaded portion starts about 1/2" down from the top with the area above being clearance.

I can not speak of early shopmith versions but from the 70's on, well that stuff I know.

Ed

db5 wrote:To clarify things, I can insert the allen wrench from the top all the way down to tighten the set screws against the glides. So, since it goes all the way through the stoppage isn't caused by a busted tap or other foreign obstruction. Since it is supposed to be tapped all the way I think that will be the fix. I'll let you know - unless I screw it up (wait, what I want to do is screw it up so I can get it out from the top ). Well, you get my drift.

The set screw is not in there to tighten against the glide. It is there to lock the stop rod as Ed and JPG said. Just back the setscrew out from the top until it clears the horizontal stop rod hole. As JPG said the top of the set screw hole is clear drilled and the rest is threaded all the way through. The nylon guide and the set screw have the same threads.

Hobbyman2 wrote:Also my glides are adjusted from the top with a flat head screw driver not a allen wrench.

You have the hex headed screws, or the headless set screws?

My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.

What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.

That keeps crud out of the hole.

*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.

Just for heads up,,, the replacement slotted glides i bought from SS are now black ,,, no longer white.

Hobbyman2 wrote:Just for heads up,,, the replacement slotted glides i bought from SS are now black ,,, no longer white.

'Early' headless ones?

[quote="JPG"]My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.

What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.

That keeps crud out of the hole.

*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.[/quote]

I agree, but there was never a "locking" set screw was there?

jsburger wrote:[quote="JPG"]My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.

What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.

That keeps crud out of the hole.

*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.

I agree, but there was never a "locking" set screw was there?[/quote]

Why did this not quote properly?

JPG wrote:My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.

What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.

That keeps crud out of the hole.

*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.

I try JSB. Worked fer me. What did you do???

Could it possibly be that 'bolding' the "]" caused strange post? I will try that with this one.