Shopsmith Forums

I see the table edge(not sides) as a "CHECK", but why the back?

To verify better, cut a wide board and set the two pieces on the just cut end and compare a common side marked prior to cutting.

Now 'straightness' of cut is best checked with a square . . .

I do agree with Ed re keep possible error introductions out of the procedure.

Many times ,,,,,,seeing some thing new ,,,,,or different,,,,, scares people,,,it even raises doubt in some cases,,like Ed said it will work on any of the tables ,,if you dont trust the rails then just use the square on the sides of the table,,,, let me just add ,,,,, when tables such as these are built they are ,,,,,,,very accurate ,,,,, They are built to very tight tolerances ,,,,or a place like SS would be out of business ,,,,the mold and jigs are spot on , they have to be,,,, this works on most all table saws that I know of,,,, it has worked that way since before I was born,,,,,, the square shows it as being perfect every time,,,,,,when or if you build,,,set up a table with t-track it is a given that every thing should be straight and square,,,, I agree there is no substitute to double checking it all with a practice cut,,,, if a person was so inclined as to slide the SS table up to the saw blade and use it to align the table to the blade then every thing should be square ,again double checking as SS details is a must for true cuts ,, remember the SS quill is only accurate according to their guy in youtube to .005 , if you put a ,,,,,,drill bit,,,,, in the chick it WILL wobble on a single bearing quill .005 ,,,so if you punch a dot on a piece of metal the drill will make a circle around that punch mark .005 , the tools are only as good as the builder specs and the operators imagination.

dusty wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:The 3" , 4" , 5" system works to.

The measurements have to be spot on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjvmTyFywG8

And you are looking for accuracy to within how many thou. I don't think so. The 3,4,5 method works great when you are framing a house or laying out foundations and fence lines.

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It can be done ,, a machines't taught me about it on a vertical mill.

dusty wrote:

garys wrote:The first picture is the best way to set it on a 500. It doesn't work with a 510 or 520 however. I always did it that way when I had my 500.

Why do you say it does not work on a 510 or 520? If the rails are set properly, it will work there as well. Don't rely on it working there unless you have verified your rails, however.

The retainer washer on the miter bar prevents you putting it in the slot on the table if you put it upside down.

Hobbyman2 wrote:

dusty wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:The 3" , 4" , 5" system works to.

The measurements have to be spot on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjvmTyFywG8

And you are looking for accuracy to within how many thou. I don't think so. The 3,4,5 method works great when you are framing a house or laying out foundations and fence lines.

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It can be done ,, a machines't taught me about it on a vertical mill.

The traverse(s) on a vertical mill are typically calibrated to 0.001 or better. So yes that is accurate, but really a milling machine? How does that help setting a SS miter gauge?

We be splitting hairs here. Any procedure that involves manual dexterity and hand-eye coordination is error prone. Even Ed's marking knife check is not human error proof(like how the knife is held).

Not all 505-20 tables have precision edges(there are pads that are referenced/used). On a greenie table, one must not reference the front edge of the table, as that is not a machined sutface - the rip fence rail is however machined. On the greenie it is a part of the table casting. On a goldie and later, the rip fence rail is an attached extrusion, but the front edge appears machined. The inclusion of the attached rail creates a possibility of the rail not being square to the miter slots(that does not matter since the rip fence is adjustable to it)

Wanna have 'fun' some time - try and get multiple tables and multiple rip fences to be interchangeable!!!

I know more over the top, but brain fodder for future reference.

If I had OCD it would be kicking in right now!!

The whole premise is fundamentally flawed. I will not comment farther because if you don't understand I sure the heck am not going to waste my time explaining why this is a bad idea.

I worked for 28 years designing and having equipment built to exacting standards. There are ways of doing thing and there are ways not to do them. I know the difference. This is a dead end street without a doubt.

Just read the manual and follow the instructions that shopsmith supplies and you will be fine.

Ed

Hobbyman2 wrote:If I had OCD it would be kicking in right now!!

Not a problem - just redirect that energy in a positive direction.

reible wrote:The whole premise is fundamentally flawed. I will not comment farther because if you don't understand I sure the heck am not going to waste my time explaining why this is a bad idea.

I worked for 28 years designing and having equipment built to exacting standards. There are ways of doing thing and there are ways not to do them. I know the difference. This is a dead end street without a doubt.

Just read the manual and follow the instructions that shopsmith supplies and you will be fine.

Ed

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Well,,,, I have 2 tables ,,a 500 and a 510 ,,,,I can switch from one to the other with out issues using the same miter gage now that they are set up using this method,

I think I will do what works for me .

Hobbyman2 wrote:

reible wrote:The whole premise is fundamentally flawed. I will not comment farther because if you don't understand I sure the heck am not going to waste my time explaining why this is a bad idea.

I worked for 28 years designing and having equipment built to exacting standards. There are ways of doing thing and there are ways not to do them. I know the difference. This is a dead end street without a doubt.

Just read the manual and follow the instructions that shopsmith supplies and you will be fine.

Ed

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Well,,,, I have 2 tables ,,a 500 and a 510 ,,,,I can switch from one to the other with out issues using the same miter gage now that they are set up using this method,

I think I will do what works for me .

Do let us know how well the 5 cut test comes out.

BTW there should not be any problem getting two miter gauges set reasonably the same regardless of the method used or the accuracy actually attained.