From what I can see, it hangs underneath, and when you use the Shopsmith's casters to stationary (with the foot levers), it lowers it to sit on the floor.
I'll see for certain once I make it. But, it seems right.
3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
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Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
Just measured the waytubes on my SS. They are abou 48-1/2" long. So, yeah, those hangers will have to go inboard. Will change that on my SketchUp model.
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-Az
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-Az
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dusty
- Platinum Member
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Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
I you plan to install casters, you would be wise to select them now. Your design dimensions right now, without change, might facilitate casters that are very low profile. By my calculations, when hanging on the Way Tubes, your cabinet will be 15/16" off the floor. The surface to which you are most likely going to mount casters provides another 2" of clearance.
Acceptable caster profile: 2 15?16"
Acceptable caster profile: 2 15?16"
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
If 'short', add a foot at each end.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
I have an old version of the "Under-the-Mark V" cabinet that came with a 500 I purchased some time ago. Yesterday I went to do a horizontal bore and found out again the cabinet is too wide to let the table go down far enough to get the drill chuck above the table (I've used the Mark VII to do most of my drilling but it is in my other shop).
I think smaller than 14 inches to fit between the legs of the saw table might be better. With the table all the way down you might have issues opening the doors.
I had the same problem with my shorty accessory shelf. It worked fine for sawing but had to remove the upper saw guard from the shelf to do horizontal boring.
I think smaller than 14 inches to fit between the legs of the saw table might be better. With the table all the way down you might have issues opening the doors.
I had the same problem with my shorty accessory shelf. It worked fine for sawing but had to remove the upper saw guard from the shelf to do horizontal boring.
Mark 7 Power Pro, Mark V 510, Mark VII (early 1960s) Headstock wall mount drill press on Mark 5 way tubes, Mark 5 Shorty with reversible motor, Overhead Pin Router, Power station with band saw, Jointers, Belt Sanders, Strip Sander, Scroll saw, Jigsaw, Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator, Craftsman 2.5 hp 13" Planer/molder, Craftsman 5 hp 12-inch planer molder, myriad Shopsmith accessories, Harbor Freight sawmill with extensions to cut 22' logs.Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
I am on my third iteration of a Shopsmith cabinet and learned several lessons.
The top shelf must be 14” wide or less so the table tubes clear when lowered for sanding or boring. With overlaid doors, the shelf must be even narrower. My cabinet ends are now 16” wide and the top shelf is 14” with inset drawers. The bottom is a half inch above the floor with casters raised.
Half inch plywood is plenty strong. I glued/screwed four 1x2 joists under the bottom to prevent sagging.
Door handles should be a third of the way down so they clear table tubes when lowered. It was surprising how often those table tubes hit the top hinge of the middle door. If I did doors again, I would mount the top hinge lower on that center door.
I found the back half of shelves don’t get used. My latest version has two large drawers on the left and four small drawers on the right. That provides better storage and no hinges to stop table tubes. Light duty drawer glides are more than adequate. My large drawers are built like boxes with oversized fronts. The top of the drawer box has slots and holes to hold saw blades, disks, and drums.
A 2.5” gap between the bottom of way tubes and top shelf allows storing frequent tools like push sticks, guards, and inserts on top. I also keep a small square of hardboard on the top that I set on the tubes to protect them when sanding metal. I also use that square like a cutting board and it is used often. A 1/4 “ strip tacked along the back edge of the top prevents tools from sliding off the back.
The traditional design with vertical end-tabs rising to bracket way tubes requires lifting the Shopsmith up and over them to install or uninstall the cabinet. I bolted plywood strips on each end to replace those tabs. Now I can unbolt two vertical strips and roll the Shopsmith on and off the cabinet.
I made the cross pieces above way tubes 4” wide and extended 8” past the front tube. Then I cut a ½” by 2.5” notch on top near the front. My fence hangs perfectly in the notch and it is quite secure. I usually use the right one, but the left one is needed in drill press mode. The 4” width is needed so the fence clears the floor. A couple hooks on the left-front drawer keep the miter gauge handy.
Drill a ¼” hole in a short piece of 2x2 and counter sink one end. Glue it vertically on the left-front vertical for Allen wrench storage.
The top shelf must be 14” wide or less so the table tubes clear when lowered for sanding or boring. With overlaid doors, the shelf must be even narrower. My cabinet ends are now 16” wide and the top shelf is 14” with inset drawers. The bottom is a half inch above the floor with casters raised.
Half inch plywood is plenty strong. I glued/screwed four 1x2 joists under the bottom to prevent sagging.
Door handles should be a third of the way down so they clear table tubes when lowered. It was surprising how often those table tubes hit the top hinge of the middle door. If I did doors again, I would mount the top hinge lower on that center door.
I found the back half of shelves don’t get used. My latest version has two large drawers on the left and four small drawers on the right. That provides better storage and no hinges to stop table tubes. Light duty drawer glides are more than adequate. My large drawers are built like boxes with oversized fronts. The top of the drawer box has slots and holes to hold saw blades, disks, and drums.
A 2.5” gap between the bottom of way tubes and top shelf allows storing frequent tools like push sticks, guards, and inserts on top. I also keep a small square of hardboard on the top that I set on the tubes to protect them when sanding metal. I also use that square like a cutting board and it is used often. A 1/4 “ strip tacked along the back edge of the top prevents tools from sliding off the back.
The traditional design with vertical end-tabs rising to bracket way tubes requires lifting the Shopsmith up and over them to install or uninstall the cabinet. I bolted plywood strips on each end to replace those tabs. Now I can unbolt two vertical strips and roll the Shopsmith on and off the cabinet.
I made the cross pieces above way tubes 4” wide and extended 8” past the front tube. Then I cut a ½” by 2.5” notch on top near the front. My fence hangs perfectly in the notch and it is quite secure. I usually use the right one, but the left one is needed in drill press mode. The 4” width is needed so the fence clears the floor. A couple hooks on the left-front drawer keep the miter gauge handy.
Drill a ¼” hole in a short piece of 2x2 and counter sink one end. Glue it vertically on the left-front vertical for Allen wrench storage.
Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
Got any photos of it?
I'm quite open to changing the design.
I'm quite open to changing the design.
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-Az
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-Az
Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
I second the removable hanging brackets. I used mine and love it. I never added casters to mine either, never had the need to remove and wheel it around (especially after the SS caster upgrade), but I could at least remove it.
I also made sure it's only as deep. As the distance between the table tubes for lowering it... As the previous poster mentioned.
Here is my original post on my design. http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/begin ... 16336.html
I am now making drawers for the middle cabinet and will need recessed finger holes for pulling out the drawers so the tubes don't hit any drawer handles.
Here is a picture for reference.
I also made sure it's only as deep. As the distance between the table tubes for lowering it... As the previous poster mentioned.
Here is my original post on my design. http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/begin ... 16336.html
I am now making drawers for the middle cabinet and will need recessed finger holes for pulling out the drawers so the tubes don't hit any drawer handles.
Here is a picture for reference.
- Full Cab pict (1).jpg (481.53 KiB) Viewed 14503 times
-Beave
Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
Ah...now I see. Yeah, that definitely is a better idea.
Looks like I'll be redesigning this sucker soon. Stay tuned for updates.
Looks like I'll be redesigning this sucker soon. Stay tuned for updates.
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-Az
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-Az
Re: 3D SketchUp of the "Under-the-Mark V" Accessory Cabinet
Can't wait to check it out. I have a love for functional storage for some odd reason. I shall indeed stay tunedAsbrand wrote:Ah...now I see. Yeah, that definitely is a better idea.
Looks like I'll be redesigning this sucker soon. Stay tuned for updates.
-Beave