Shopsmith Forums

Ok, here are a few pics of my 10ER. It was gifted to me several years ago by a fella at church who was moving and knew I tinkered in my shop. She's has served me well every since! As far as I know everything is original.

I ordered the blade guard along time ago (and set it in the pic for show) but I never use it. I need to get the mounting bracket straight for it to align with the blade better.

It has the jointer also. I've never removed the jointer nor have I ever taken the unit out of horizontal position. I'm wondering if the jointer will make installing the speed changer a bit more challenging.

I think the next thing I will do is repaint the belt cover. Is that Krylon Industrial Blue/Grey that most folks use?

brian wrote:Ok, here are a few pics of my 10ER. It was gifted to me several years ago by a fella at church who was moving and knew I tinkered in my shop. She's has served me well every since! As far as I know everything is original.

I ordered the blade guard along time ago (and set it in the pic for show) but I never use it. I need to get the mounting bracket straight for it to align with the blade better.

It has the jointer also. I've never removed the jointer nor have I ever taken the unit out of horizontal position. I'm wondering if the jointer will make installing the speed changer a bit more challenging.

I think the next thing I will do is repaint the belt cover. Is that Krylon Industrial Blue/Grey that most folks use?

Nice. Thanks for the pictures.
I can't say I have used my upper blade guard either. I do have a Mark 5 lower blade guard that I use, but there are some issues.

You shouldn't have to remove the jointer to install the speed changer, It should pivot to the left and hang down out of the way. See the manual for the jointer mounting kit. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2704
and the manual for the jointer. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2692

Not sure about the paint, I am in the process of restoring one now, my third, I am leaning towards painting it two tone, hammered silver for the headstock and hammered pewter for the rest.

brian wrote:Ok, here are a few pics of my 10ER. It was gifted to me several years ago by a fella at church who was moving and knew I tinkered in my shop. She's has served me well every since! As far as I know everything is original.

I ordered the blade guard along time ago (and set it in the pic for show) but I never use it. I need to get the mounting bracket straight for it to align with the blade better.

It has the jointer also. I've never removed the jointer nor have I ever taken the unit out of horizontal position. I'm wondering if the jointer will make installing the speed changer a bit more challenging.

I think the next thing I will do is repaint the belt cover. Is that Krylon Industrial Blue/Grey that most folks use?
10ER 1.JPG
10ER 2.jpg
10ER 3.jpg
10ER 4.jpg

Yes, that is the closest to the original color. That is the one Skip Campbell recommends short of a custom mix.

...that moment when the speed changer arrives.... but the belts haven't... nooooooOOOOooooo Ha. It looks to be in great shape. The center of the pulley (sheath?) can slide left and right.. isn't that what I should check? adjuster knob turns cranks without issue as well. Guess I should stick it on the way bars later when it's not 100 degrees in the shop.

brian wrote:...that moment when the speed changer arrives.... but the belts haven't... nooooooOOOOooooo
IMG_2305.JPG

Ha. It looks to be in great shape. The center of the pulley (sheath?) sheave (pronounced shiv) can slide left and right.. isn't that what I should check? adjuster knob turns cranks without issue as well. Guess I should stick it on the way bars later when it's not 100 degrees in the shop.

Looking good. Hope the belts get there soon.

Then make something nice for your wife,

Ok.. So I got it on the way bars... Bars are waxed and headstock slides like butter. SC is a very tight slide. It does slide but not near like I would like. Are there any tips for smoothing that out? Do take it back off and use really high grit sandpaper or anything?

I still haven't hooked to headstock since I want to make that a bit better first.

I haven't had that trouble with mine.

It is possible that the repair (weld) caused a slight misalignment. If it were mine I would colour the insides of the two bores with a marker pen, then slide it back and forth on the way tubes. Where the maker rubbed off would show where it is rubbing (too tight). Then work on just those areas with the sandpaper. "Rinse and repeat" till it slides smoothly.

As you suggested I took the SC off to put marker on it but I could already see from inspection where it seemed to be rubbing... So I started out with sandpaper and trying it on the tubes a few times. I could feel improvement. Then I put a small sanding wheel on my drill.. I went in light passes and followed up with fine paper and then steel wool.

Took a bit but she slides good now!

Thanks for the advice.

Great news!!!!

I would have expected some binding on the opposite end/side/bore also.

You 'finished' the repair!!!

Oh I did both about the same amount.