Shopsmith Forums

John, on the SS UTR product page, they show it used with what looks like a standard SS tool rest mounted to a special stubby/offset tool post, which I presume is included with the UTR. In your photos, it appears that you installed a standard (tall) SS tool post. Is the tool rest still too high if you use the stubby tool post instead?

BuckeyeDennis wrote:John, on the SS UTR product page, they show it used with what looks like a standard SS tool rest mounted to a special stubby/offset tool post, which I presume is included with the UTR. In your photos, it appears that you installed a standard (tall) SS tool post. Is the tool rest still too high if you use the stubby tool post instead?

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I don't believe so but I will do some more checking this afternoon and let you know. The picture I posted was just a quick look. It needs more investigation which I will do.

Dansmith wrote:Thanks, John. By the way, how does the UTR mount to the carriage? No holes in mine except for the screw lift (and of course, the 2 table mounting 1" holes).

Same as on the MK V which also has no bolt holes. See the first picture above. The bolts pass down on either side of the carriage and the aluminum bar passes under the carriage. I just didn't tighten it up in the first picture. I also have to see if there are enough threads to tighten up on the 10ER carriage. Might need shorter bolts. I will check this afternoon.

jsburger wrote:

Dansmith wrote:Thanks, John. By the way, how does the UTR mount to the carriage? No holes in mine except for the screw lift (and of course, the 2 table mounting 1" holes).

Same as on the MK V which also has no bolt holes. See the first picture above. The bolts pass down on either side of the carriage and the aluminum bar passes under the carriage. I just didn't tighten it up in the first picture. I also have to see if there are enough threads to tighten up on the 10ER carriage. Might need shorter bolts. I will check this afternoon.

Thanks, John. No need to check bolt lenght; but, thanks anyway.

Dansmith wrote:I was using my 10er today as a lathe, and when turning a goblet, I encountered a "need" for a modification.

The goblet blank length was about 5" and 2" x 2' square. I placed the blank between centers, and my tool rest did not cover but half of the blank lenght. I would have to turn the entire tool rest around to do the other half. I didn't need to in this case because I just turned a spigot on the headstock end to mount to a chuck.

So, I have a need for a modification that would let me use a regular banjo from a stand alone type lathe. Anyone know of any such modifcation?

I was also interested in the Universal Tool Rest which would be great; but, I don't know that it will work on the 10Er.

Hi Dan

I was having difficulty visualizing your problem, so I went out and mounted a piece of scrap wood, 2"x6", between centers on mine. I'm still not understanding. Could you post a picture of you setup to clarify where the problem is.

Thanks.

OK, here is the answer as I see it. The UTR will work fine with the 10ER. First the bolts have enough threads to attach the base plate to the carriage. No need for shorter bolts. There are a couple of ways to go for the tool rest itself. The 10ER straight tool rest I have is just below center using the short stubby arm that comes with the UTR (first picture). The long straight MK V tool rest and the short straight tool rest that comes in the specialty tool rest kit are both slightly above center. The 90* and S shaped tool rest from the specialty kit are slightly below center.

The tool rest posts are 3/4" and the post that attaches the short stubby arm to the main arm is 1". The first thing you could do is loose the short stubby arm. That would gain you an inch but you would have to buy third party tool rests with 1" posts.

The best and easiest option is to remove the cast iron block from the end of the large arm. (second and third pictures). That will gain you 1 1/2" and you can sill use the short stubby arm and SS tool rests. The only thing that would have to be done is drill and tap the large arm for a set screw to lock the short stubby arm in place. To me that is the solution and it should work perfectly.

Ron, you visualized the issue correctly and thanks for the proof that it can be done. I was apparently being mentally challenged that day (not the first time ) . As soon as I saw your photo of the set-up, I went out and tried again. My 10er has that sheet metal motor cover that I think you commented upon when you saw photos of my 10er. Well, the table crank was preventing the carriage from going far enough to the left due to the sheet metal cover. Took off the table crank. Problem solved.

jsburger wrote:OK, here is the answer as I see it. The UTR will work fine with the 10ER. First the bolts have enough threads to attach the base plate to the carriage. No need for shorter bolts. There are a couple of ways to go for the tool rest itself. The 10ER straight tool rest I have is just below center using the short stubby arm that comes with the UTR (first picture). The long straight MK V tool rest and the short straight tool rest that comes in the specialty tool rest kit are both slightly above center. The 90* and S shaped tool rest from the specialty kit are slightly below center.

The tool rest posts are 3/4" and the post that attaches the short stubby arm to the main arm is 1". The first thing you could do is loose the short stubby arm. That would gain you an inch but you would have to buy third party tool rests with 1" posts.

The best and easiest option is to remove the cast iron block from the end of the large arm. (second and third pictures). That will gain you 1 1/2" and you can sill use the short stubby arm and SS tool rests. The only thing that would have to be done is drill and tap the large arm for a set screw to lock the short stubby arm in place. To me that is the solution and it should work perfectly.

Excellent, thanks John!

... Dennis

Dansmith wrote:Ron, you visualized the issue correctly and thanks for the proof that it can be done. I was apparently being mentally challenged that day (not the first time ) . As soon as I saw your photo of the set-up, I went out and tried again. My 10er has that sheet metal motor cover that I think you commented upon when you saw photos of my 10er. Well, the table crank was preventing the carriage from going far enough to the left due to the sheet metal cover. Took off the table crank. Problem solved.

Ah. That explains it then. I usually only install that crank when I need it for something.

As the estate lawyers say. "Where there's a Will, there's a way."