That is true. I had forgot about that and it is in the instructions.Hobbyman2 wrote:take the thing apart and put a good end back into the jig then see what changed ? you could have flipped the front side with the back side , I all ways mark front and back top and bottom?
Wannigan/Cooler Build
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Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- rjent
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Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
I think that the only problem with the wrong alignment is that the fingers don't align for the edges to line up. I amy be wrong, but that is what I remember.Hobbyman2 wrote:take the thing apart and put a good end back into the jig then see what changed ? you could have flipped the front side with the back side , I all ways mark front and back top and bottom?
JMHO
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
I agree with Hobbyman
I think you accidently flipped a piece front to back. Always mark them so your marks always face each other.
Don G
I think you accidently flipped a piece front to back. Always mark them so your marks always face each other.
Don G
- JPG
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Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
I do not understand how the front/back flip will affect runout(?) on a single joint.
Now getting the opposite end to line up is understandable.
I would be suspicious of technique regarding direction of pressure of the workpiece against the fingers.
Now getting the opposite end to line up is understandable.
I would be suspicious of technique regarding direction of pressure of the workpiece against the fingers.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
Yes it is possible I mixed something up.
Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that the marked edge of board #1 should face left (from the operator's perspective). After cutting all the joints on one end of a board #1, board #1 needs to be to be flipped to do the joints on the other end of board #1 while keeping the marked edge orientation of board #1 to the operator's left.
I also understand that to cut the joints on board #2 to match, board #1 must be rotated so the marked edge of board #1 abuts the marked edge of board #2. And so on.
Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that the marked edge of board #1 should face left (from the operator's perspective). After cutting all the joints on one end of a board #1, board #1 needs to be to be flipped to do the joints on the other end of board #1 while keeping the marked edge orientation of board #1 to the operator's left.
I also understand that to cut the joints on board #2 to match, board #1 must be rotated so the marked edge of board #1 abuts the marked edge of board #2. And so on.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
I have never used an I box, but have made box joints up to 12 inches long.
It is a trial and error thing and requires a homemade box joint jig. If your joints are too tight you just tap the jig one direction with a small hammer. If the joints are too loose tap in the other direction.
There are internet directions on making such jig and adjustments.
s I describe a tap - it is just that and depends a lot on how tight the jig is bolted to the miter guage.
Best wishes! I know you can do it.
It is a trial and error thing and requires a homemade box joint jig. If your joints are too tight you just tap the jig one direction with a small hammer. If the joints are too loose tap in the other direction.
There are internet directions on making such jig and adjustments.
s I describe a tap - it is just that and depends a lot on how tight the jig is bolted to the miter guage.
Best wishes! I know you can do it.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- rjent
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Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
That is correct. I like to do each corner as I go (usually CCW), but each to his own. I just like to see it come together corner by corner.algale wrote:Yes it is possible I mixed something up.
Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that the marked edge of board #1 should face left (from the operator's perspective). After cutting all the joints on one end of a board #1, board #1 needs to be to be flipped to do the joints on the other end of board #1 while keeping the marked edge orientation of board #1 to the operator's left.
I also understand that to cut the joints on board #2 to match, board #1 must be rotated so the marked edge of board #1 abuts the marked edge of board #2. And so on.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/smile.gif)
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
Not sure why the cuts are off,,,, but like I was saying if you mark top and bottom as well as the corners you should be good to go as long as nothing moves , I cant tell you how many times I flipped and spun the stupid board instead of just spinning it and had to make another .
One thing that may help ,,,is once you have them laid out ,,, set them next to each other in order and see if they line up.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
very nice work!
One thing that may help ,,,is once you have them laid out ,,, set them next to each other in order and see if they line up.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
very nice work!
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
Re: Incra iBox/box joint frustration
Well, it looks like I did indeed flip or rotate a piece when I shouldn't have.
A little flipping a little rotating and a little mallet and the joints all game together. I will say, however, that something must have moved because the first joint I did was a bit looser than all the others. Still, should work for this project. Thanks for the advice everyone!
![Embarrassment :o](./images/smilies/redface.gif)
![Embarrassment :o](./images/smilies/redface.gif)
![Embarrassment :o](./images/smilies/redface.gif)
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Incra iBox Success
So, this was the best corner on the wannigan. It is 16" long and the fingers are 1/4”wide.
I think that's a pretty good result for the iBox. There was some tear out in the cheap big box store ply (which is .192 thick), and the other corners were worse. But it doesn't matter because these joints are not structural. They are just there to hold the box together while I reinforce the inside corners with thickened epoxy fillets. The outside corners will get slightly rounded over and the whole thing will get a fiberglass/epoxy covering to make it totally water proof and strong.
Last edited by algale on Sun Mar 18, 2018 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!