Shopsmith Forums

Those look great and thank you for the information it helps spot! I’m hoping to get a lot better at this craft and to rebuild this ss and eventually teach my son and hand it down when the time comes so any help is greatly appreciated in how to properly do these and I’m surprised how many knowledgeable people have responded in just 8 hours! It helps a lot and I appreciate all of y’all thank you and god bless

Sicmachinist wrote:Well I’m referring to polishing as in sanding down with fine grit till it’s shiny chrome looking than coating with way lube oil well I was till I got a reply on this now I gotta find this wax stuff

FORGET OIL anywhere on the SS, except in the sheaves. You want a light oil, like sewing machine oil, 3n1 or turbine oil. One with a long spout wood be great accessing the top sheave, behind the medallion.

beeg wrote:

Sicmachinist wrote:Well I’m referring to polishing as in sanding down with fine grit till it’s shiny chrome looking than coating with way lube oil well I was till I got a reply on this now I gotta find this wax stuff

FORGET OIL anywhere on the SS, except in the sheaves. You want a light oil, like sewing machine oil, 3n1 or turbine oil. One with a long spout wood be great accessing the top sheave, behind the medallion.

OP has a 10er, so no sheaves unless it has a speed changer.

rpd wrote:

beeg wrote:

Sicmachinist wrote:Well I’m referring to polishing as in sanding down with fine grit till it’s shiny chrome looking than coating with way lube oil well I was till I got a reply on this now I gotta find this wax stuff

FORGET OIL anywhere on the SS, except in the sheaves. You want a light oil, like sewing machine oil, 3n1 or turbine oil. One with a long spout wood be great accessing the top sheave, behind the medallion.

OP has a 10er, so no sheaves unless it has a speed changer.

No medallion on the back with a hole behind it either.

beeg was refereeing to parts on the Shopsmith Mark 5 not on your Model 10. As you may have gussed rpd and JPG were "gently" pointing out his error.
If you do have a speed changer and any questions about it or any other questions just ask.

Hey I pulled the wedge locks out like you suggested and just looking at them yep that’s the issue there chewed up a good bit nothing I can’t remachine out of stainless at work I appreciate the tip

Sicmachinist wrote:Hey I pulled the wedge locks out like you suggested and just looking at them yep that’s the issue there chewed up a good bit nothing I can’t remachine out of stainless at work I appreciate the tip

I wouldn't recommend making the wedge locks from stainless steel. You want them to be softer than the way tubes so that any deformation happens on the locks. The first 10E's had brass wedge locks, later they went to the aluminum.

Well I have already replaced way tubes with stainless 6 foot solid stainless to beef it up it only cost me 100$ at my local pipe supply to beef it up and add some weight to it so I think it should hold up but not a bad idea for softer locks I’m just thinking long term hassle free I tried to mill a new head stock on 4 axis and getting everything concentric and aligning everything just right is more than my equipment can manage in the time I have at work sadly my bores where off by like .010

If you are going to make your own wedges for the locks your best bet is to make them out of brass. The picture shows the differences between the the lock versions. The one on the right is a way tube lock handle, the rest are quill lock handles. The keyed one was only used on the Quill Lock. Because the wedge material is soft (some kind of aluminum alloy), the middle two use a nut which sits in a hex recess in the rear wedge. The rear brass wedge is threaded. The single wedge locks screw into the headstock or carriage directly.

Thank you mine is the one in the middle on the left side