Shopsmith Forums

Thanks to all for the much needed info. And to Nick, thanks for the encouragement on starting with a project that has 28 mortise joints.

When I first decided to undertake this addiction, my first purchase was a book caled the complete guide to sharpening. Armed with that book and a few used planes and chisels, during the time I have been rebuilding the SS, I learned to make my edged tools sharp as a razor so I believe they are up to the task.

I also purchased a book around the same time called Woodworking Wisdom, a picture of the slender author graces the cover. After pouring over the contents repeatedly, I feel I will be upto the task of handling the chisels.

My only real concern is if I should clean up the corners of the joints by using the chisel from the edges of the joint to the center, and then do the same starting from the other side working towards the center to avoid any breakout, or just start at what will be the most visible side of the joint and just work from one side ? Hope that made more sense than it sounded to me.

Get yourself a mortising chisel (available from Woodcraft), get it razor sharp, set it on the layout line the defines the corner perpendicular to the grain, and drive the chisel down. Simple as that. I believe I show how to do this in http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... ng_Pt2.htm It's one of the first videos we did, so it's not very clear but take a look around 11:20 on the counter.

With all good wishes,

If you make your shoulder cut on the tenon 1/4" inch deep on a 3/4" piece, you will not have to worry about any tear out or inconsistence edges on the mortise. The offset will cover any mistakes. I have been building furniture professionally for about 35 years and this is the method I and most have found to avoid your quandary.
Rick Davis
Traveling Academy Instructor

I have seen your video on using that corner chisel more than a few times but when I seen the cost of the chisel it put a halt on that option. My SS 510 was not much more than the cost of that chisel when I got it so I may be stuck on the straight chisel for the job. On blind tenons, I may just elect to round the tenons off.

Why not use the ShopSmith Mortising Package to cut the mortises? The Mortising and Tenon kit is on sale.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... chisel.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... ng_Pt1.htm

Or use the Slot Mortising Package
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item

ShopSmith also sells a corner chisel for squaring routed mortises
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item

Nick wrote:If this is your first woodworking project then I would suggest something a bit less demanding.

As a long-time woodworking instructor, I strongly disagree. If Mission furniture has taken your fancy, pursue it. Something simpler may not be nearly as as challenging or as soul-satisfying. "A man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?" -- Robert Browning

With all good wishes,

Robert Browning ever pay $12 a board foot for quartersawn white oak? Didn't think so. Is that how you start your inexperienced students off, with challenging projects requiring expensive materials? I don't care how long you've been an instructor, using expensive and rare wood is no way to learn new techniques in joinery. By all means pursue it, but accomplish that by many hours of practice on inexpensive and easy to work woods like pine and poplar until you're confidant enough to tackle the real thing.

Jg, thanks for the imput, I had seem the links before, but the price of the mortising package is out of my budjet for the moment. When starting out, too many things are needed all at once and I just finished the SS rebuild so it will be some time before I can get one of those. I did see that smaller unit you sent the link for , I had no idea it could be used for mortising, though it was limited to the use shown, cleaning up for hinges on doors. This I can afford and it will really answer the problem. Thanks.

Seeing as how your thread title is "About the Wood" I applaud your desire to seek out the proper wood species for this style of project. I believe it's important in this type of work or when making a reproduction piece that you stay true to the type of wood historically used. IMO it will greatly increase the projects value. I would agree with Nick in that you shouldn't set limits for yourself and I was not trying to convey that. Just trying to point out, if you weren't already aware, of the high cost of material involved.
Anyway, good luck with the project.

Well I, being so cavalier and all, built as my first woodworking project a flat-top dreadnought acoustic guitar. It turned out excellent and I still play it today (15 years later). I am no miracle worker, but it can be done.

Has anyone else jumped into the deep end on their first project and won?

Drew

p.s. white oak is less than $5 bf

Looks like you're cavalier about reading also. Read it again, QUARTERSAWN White Oak.

http://www.woodply.com/turningblocks.htm